A NEW SCENERY ROUTE.

Press, Volume LII, Issue 9137, 22 June 1895, Page 5

A NEW SCENERY ROUTE.

MAGELLAN STRAITS AND MONTE VIDEO. A CHAT WITH CAPTAIN GREENSTREET. (BY OCR SPECIAL REPORTER). Ths New Zealand Shipping Company, always anxious to cater for the comfort and convenience of the numerous passengers who travel by their magnificent steamers, have inaugurated a now route homewards through the Magellan Ktraits, which will enable travellers by what are called the "direct liners " to see as much as ia interesting from a scenic point of view as that by the Orient or P. and 0., without the inconvenience of the exceedingly hot—and to a New Zcalander tryiug—weather met with on the latter. In fact, as will be seen by the very graphic and interesting description given by Captain Green3treet of the wild, weird beauty of the scenery, it is probable that tha route will ere loDg become the most popular way of reachiug England. As the matter is one of considerable interest to the travelling public, aud the features of the country so new and remarkable, a member of the staff of the Press had a chat with Captain Greenstreet, of the Rimutaka, just before his leaving on the trip through the straits the otner day. Captain Greenstreet is an authority on the Magellan Straits, having gone through them several times. Though he had to deal with the hundred and one matters which take up the time of a captain on the eve ol sailiug, Captain Greenstreet kindly gave mc half au hour to chat with him. THE MAGELLAN STRAITS. "My first voyage through the straits," Raid Captain Greenstreet as we settled down to chat, " was in 1890, It was a midsummer voyage, as we left Lyttelton on the 11th December. When you first make the Straits Cape Pillar comes into view, rising straight out of the sea like Cleopatra's .Needle. Beyond this the land i 3 rugged, high peaks rising up at the back in all kiuds of laulastio shapes. Close to the sea the rocks are covered with a small lichen

moss, and in the range of hills are small barren looking gullies widening out in places to deep serrated fissures. The vegetation is scant, only this moss, and the summits of the peaks at the back are all snow clad. On one side of Cape Pillar, at the entrance to the straits, is an island with a lot of pinnacles rising out of it in irregular fashion. This is called West Hall, and we went in between Cape Pillar and the island. The entrance to the Straits here ia ten miles wide, Cape Pillar being 310 ft high, and the rocks at its base washed by the sea. Tbere is a peculiar weirdncss about the scenery as we enter the straits, a weirdness increased by the driving across of squalls like a black veil though we are in sunlight. Rounding Cape Pillar about a mile off, affording a splendid view of the bare rocks towering up, we enter Sea Reacn. The land here is bold and rugged, the dark looking mountains sparsely clothed with vegetation, slope right down to the sea abruptly, and the channel is studded with small islands. After some thirty miles' has been steamed, the scenery being -of the same description, the Straits narrow to six miles. Here the scenic

beauty of the trip commences, and we steam close by a magnificent wateriail 1020 ft sheer drop into mc sea, The waterfall commences in a small lake on the mountain, rising 5500 ft above the sea, and falls sheer down on to a small plateau, and thence into the sea. The mouataios on either side rise

ruggedly from the sea, snow-capped,, and having great walls of glacier ice showing on tham, glistening white and blue in the sun. The glaciers form fissures in the sides of the mountains, and in the summer season the colouring contrasted with the dark sombre lookiug hills gives a beautiful effect. The colour of the ice is remarkable. It is a kind of mixture of ethereal blue and green, aud must be seen to be fully appreciated. Passing through Sea Reach, and leaving its beauties with regret, we next enter Long Reach. At this point the Strait narrows to about two miles wide.

The Strait is studded with a profusion of small islauds nestling right at the foot of the high range of mountains which go sheer up i'tom the water's edge. These mountains differ in character altogether from any other. Peaks of the most fantastic shapes meet the eye on every side.j all snow clad or with huge glaciers shining out clear and cold from the summits. After twenty miles of this scenery we open out a bay known as Glacier Bay. A range of mountains 3500 ft in height runs along the back ot the bay for several miles, and a huge glacier from which the ba3 7 gets its name shows up in solemn majesty, running down the whole side of one of these mountains from the summit to the sea. This is a grand and most impressive sight, more particularly with the bright sunlight ou it. Off this bay the natives very frequently come out to us, shooting out in their clumsy ami very primitive canoes from the various bays and creeks. These natives are the very lowest types of humanity, scarcely removed from the monkey. They wear little or no clothing except a mat, but I noticed always that they had a fire in the centre of their cauoe, which was never allowed to go out. One voyage a canoe with five natives in it, three of whom were women, came off; they cried out, " Tabak, Tabak," which shows that they knew something as to our customs. We slowed down and dropped over to them a box containing some biscuits, meat and tobacco. I have never allowed them to board us. The upper part of the natives appears to be well developed, owing I suppose to their constantly paddling, but the lower extremities are very thin. They do not live in huts or anything of that kind, but simply burrow in the earth like animals. At the entrance of Glacier JJay is a most remarkable looking island. It is right at the foot of the glacier I have described, and is studded all over its surface with what I at first took to be gravestones, consisting of two upright sticks and a flat board at the top. When I got nearer, however, I saw that these were boards on which the names of the various ships which had visited the island and the bay we-e carved. From the ship it has a peculiar appearance. One trip I had the experience of going through this part of the Straits iv bright moonlight with the sea like glass, and it was an experience to remember. The high mountain ranges with their snowy peaks were reflected right across our track. Tne scenery in the day-

time is strikingly grand and beautiful, but ifc is far more so in moonlight. We saw a peculiar atmospheric effect which is common in the Straits. This was the setting sun in a bank of rose-coloured clouds behind us, whilst in front a dark squall swept over the Straits. Fortunately these squalls are of very short duration. We now enter Crooked Reach, so called from the very sharp turns, and the Straits are now at their narrowest. We round the point of the reach within one hundred yards, and pass the Thornton Peaks, a range of mountains 2725 ft high. The scenery here resembles that of New.Zealand in that it is rolling downs. There is, however, little or no vegetation, but the Straits.run. off into numerous sounds and inlets. Passing round Cape Quod, we. enter English Reach, the Straits widening out to five miles, and we next come to Cape Froward, the Sonth Cape of South America. From here a northeast course is shaped, and we get a magnificent view of the grandest of peaks seen on the way, Mount Sarmiento, 7350f0 high, snow-clad to the summit. In clear weather this peak can be seen for ninety-six miles. Great glaciers are to be seen lying on the sides of tbe peak, and also great furrows glacier-lined. This is a grand sight, not to be equalled anywhere iv the world. Off Cape Isadora the wreck of a French mail steamer in to be seen. The scenery now begins to change from the wild, weird character we have been passing through. The land is low rolling plateaus, covered with a short tussock, grass. This continues till we reach Sandy Point, or Punta Arenas, where we anchor. This is 200 miles from Cape Pillar, at the entrance of the Straits. It is an old Chilian, convict

settlement, but is now growing in importance each year. The first voyage I visited it there were only a few huts and houses. Now there is a considerable population,and a good hotel has been built. List voyage I landed six passengers there who were going to Monte Video, but who thus eS/»ped the quarantine for having touched abjßis. Steamers pass through ths Straits

three times a week trading to tho West Coast. There is the Pacific line, the Cosmos line, and others. So you will see that the not quite so desolate a p ace as people imagine. We always drop anchor here if daylight fails us going through, because the channel at the other end is difficult. Boats come off with curios, the principal of which is guanaco skin rugs, which are made from the skin of a goat caught in the hill country. There are also some gold and silver ornaments offered. The population is principally Chilian and Patagonians. There is a Governor and a harbourmaster, 'and ships pay a small light due. The officials speak fairly good English. This is a very good coaling station, and was, as I iiave said, originally ft penal settlement, but the trade through the Straits has developed the coal resources so largely that there is now, I should think, a population of 3000. The streets ckre lighted with gas from one end to the other, and it is contemplated to light up the whole extent of the Straits. Leaving Sandy Point we pass through what are called the Narrows. Here the Straits are only one and a half miles wide, with mud banks rising perpendicularly on each side. There is a considerable current here, running from six to eight knots an hour, and if it is favourable the ship goes at a speed of twenty knots an hoar. At the cud of the First Narrows we come to Delagardo Point, where there is a large wool station, outside of which the Chilian flag is flying. They always dip the flag as I pass, and I return the compliment. The land is lovel here, not unlike our Canterbury plaius. The range of mountains are very low, not above 900 feet, and are called The Asses' Ears, from the peculiar manner in which they rise. We are now close to Dungeness Point, which is the end of the Straits, and, passing the low sandy point, we are ouce more out on the ocean. The passage through the Straits can ba done in twenty-three aud a half hours, and I have done it in that time. It depends upon the time of making the entrance, which I always try to do just at daylight. There is not the slightest danger, and I can go full speed the whole time. As I have said the scenery is something beautiful, and most interesting because quite out of the common.

MONTE VIDEO.

"A four days' run brings ua to Monte Video, which is our port of call now as well as Rio. Tliiß roue has been adopted about a year by the Company, aud affords passengers an opportunity of seeing this beautiful and quaint capital of the Republic of Uruguay. As will be seen by the photos the greater part of the city is built on a peninsula, an arm of the sea running' up, It is a very tine city, with some magoificont public buildings, granite aud marble being the principal building materials used. The. streets are all paved with granite, and there is a very perfect and complete tram system. The trams are drawn by wiry little horses which go at good speed. As the city is built on a hill on three sides slopiug down to the sea the system of drainage is perfect and it is a very healthy place, yellow fever being unknown. The population is perfectly cosmopolitan, and as the ship remains thirty-six hours the passengers have every opportunity of seeing the city. The prinbuilding in the city ia the Cathedral, which is built in marble aud granite. The dome and the two towers can be seeu at sea a long distance. A few years ago the population of Monte Video was about 150,000, but it has increased since then. It is a tine coaling station, and coal can be got cheaper than at Rio. The houses in the suburbs are well and substantially built, and all have gardens in which Bougauvilleas and other tropical plants are to be seen in profusion. The hotels are numerous and excellent, and the inhabitants are most courteous and polite to strangers. Tho climate is very fiae indeed, and there is a grand water supply, which is brought by pipes 133 miles to the city. There is a splendid steam tug service to land the passengers from the ship, which has to lay off about two miles. Moate Video is eighteen days' steaming from New Zealand, aud there is cable communication with Europe.

THE HOMEWARD TRIP.

"After leaving Monte Video four days takes us to Rio. Then up the coast we go to 'Teneriffe, passing en route Fernando Noronah, an island where we are signalled and reported to England. This is a Brazillian convict settlement, and a peak rises from the island 1000 ft. Thence our course is through the Cape de Verde islands, sighting the wonderful peak on tbe island of Fogo, rising in sugar-loaf shape 8000 ft above the sea- level, and on till• we come to Teneriffe, where we remain for eight hours. From here we make a straight run to Plymouth, sighting Cape Finisterre, and crossing the Bay cf Biscay, which nine times out of ten does not deserve its bad character. Altogether the route is a charming one, because of the variety of scenery of a perfectly unique character."