A LONDON NOTEBOOK.

Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 9, 11 January 1934, Page 12

A LONDON NOTEBOOK.

OPENING OF PARLIAMENT. LONDONDERRY HOUSE.

(By PHILINE.)

LONDON, November 30. Thejjeers and peeresses of the realm, in their scarlet and ermine robes and rainbow-hued gowns, have ouee again formed a magnificent background for the age-old ceremony of the State opening of Parliament. They gathered in the rich chamber of the House of Lords to witness the procession from the robing room, and, finally, the entrance of His Majesty the King, who mounted to the throne and, with the Prince of Wales on his right hand and the Queen 011 his left, proceeded with the reading of his Speech. Many of the robes worn by the peers on this occasion were old vestments which are treasured heirlooms, used only when their owners are in the House of Lords or are taking part in processions before the King. At other times they are stored with experts, who sec that they are retrimmed when necessary, though the foundation cloth is the same as it was when woven centuries ago. The Earl of Denbigh probably possesses the most ancient robes of till, for his were first worn by an ancestor in the reign of James I. They are remarkable for their colour, which is purple, whereas those of most peers are scarlet. The cloth is of superfine quality, and distinctively trimmed with ermine and gold lace to indicate the rank of the wearer. The Earl of Rosslyn's robes, too, are of great age. They have been handed, down the family for 140 years, and were made for the first Lord Loughborough. Fashion and Tradition. The march of fashion, however, was noticeable in the pastel tinted and metallic tissue gowns of the feminine element in the Chamber. The peeresses were dressed in 1033 modes, trains sweeping out from beneath long velvet or brocaded coats of a very modem cut, with sable or snowy white e»mine collars. But tradition played its part in at least one item of their apparel. The tiara was very obviously present, and in many instances this jewelled headdress was a cherished heirloom which had passed down through a long succession of generations. The tiara certainly added splendour to the scene, though many ladies still seem to find difficulty in fastening them securely to the modern shingled head. One duchess, I noticed, had an elaborate arrangement for keeping hers in place. It was worn like a halo, and needed considerable support. This she achieved by means of a double strand of black silk millinery wire which crossed her head from front to back, where it joined, another band of wire. Not content with this, about four short, prong-like comb pieces were pushed into her hair and fastened to the. tiara. Eve of Parliament Reception. For the first time in several years the eve of session reception at Londonderry House was really an evening affair and not merely an afternoon tea party. All the old splendours of these nocturnal political gatherings, over which Lord and Lady Londonderry have long been wont to preside, wore fully revived. It took quite half an hour for all but the earliest arrivals to reach the top of the beautifully decorated staircase, where the hostess received her guests with the help of Mr. Mac Donald and Mr. Baldwin. Lady Londonderry had chosen an effective toilet, and none of the impressive tiaras worn that night \vere more gorgeous than, her own diamond and pearl crown. Dowu the front of her satin gown hung an ornament composed of six huge amethysts, and surrounded by rows of diamonds. A great spray of mauve orchids and the purple ribbon of the Dame of the British Empire completed a study in shades of purple in a setting of shining white satin. b Few of her guests how much trouble their hostess had taken to scent and adorn her staircase. Her daughters had brought over from their Irish home quantities of sweet-smelling leaves — eucalyptus, scented geraniums, buddleia and mimosa. Nor was there a sparcity of flowers in other parts of Londonderry House, for every room was filled with great mop-headed chrysanthemums and snapdragons. Plaids and Checks. Devotees of the "plaid and check" fashion have apparently gained a new recruit to their band. He is an important recruit; one who has nu>re than once set a fashion himself, which the whole civilised world hastens to adopt as quickly as possible. It should be easy to guess his identity. He is, of course, the Prince of Wales. His Royal Highness' Christmas presents this year to women friends took the form of tweed handbags and scarves in bold checks of green and white and black and white. Furthermore, on replenishing his stock of handkerchiefs the other day it was noted that the Prince forbore to cjiooso the polka dotted foulards which, on his initiative, were so greatly sought after last year. His latest choice falls upon those of plaid designs (which Paris is using for women's day dresses) in red, green and blue, on beige grounds. Each handkerchief was carefully matched against his suit and tie to ensure complete harmony. They 'lay of London—. A throng of well-wishers congregated recently in the London salon of Mme. Schiaparelli, the renowned Italian dress designer. They came to wish her luck in her new venture, which is the opening of "her London establishment. Out of the crowd of guests I picked two very distinct and different personalities who are among London's-notable visitors. Young Douglas Fairbanks was full of praise for our city. He and his father here here, he said, ■ because they considered London is, at least for the time being, the city that is keeping its head, and that, he affirmed, is what matters most of all. Suzanne Lenglen, too, seems fond of London. She is going to start a club and lawn tennis school here before long, and she hopes that we shall extend as much recognition to lawn tennis, professionals as we do to "players" on' golf courses or on cricket fields. In Madame Schiaparelli's belief, London has become the leading fashion city of the world. The movement to win these laurels for itself was l , of course, set on foot some two years ago, and derived its inspiration from the Queen, who expressed n. wish that Court dresses should be made in England.