QUEST OF EVEREST.

Auckland Star, Volume LV, Issue 151, 27 June 1924, Page 5

QUEST OF EVEREST.

SUPERHUMAN EFFORTS. \ NINE OF THE 'TIGERS. , AT 25.300 FEET. (By Cable.—Press Association. —Copyright.l (Received 12 noon.) j LONDON, June 20. | Colonel Norton, of the Mount Kvcrest' expedition, in a dispatch dated June 8 from a camp at a height of 21,000 ft east of the Ronptbuk glacier, relates the almost superhuman difficulties nf the. final assault, especially the demeanour of the native porters —enough to daunt the hardiest spirits. I It had been already decided to modify; the original plans owing to the moral: and physical exhaustion of th-: native, porters. \ It was anticipated that few would have | been available to assist the, climbers above 23.000 ft, and that the climber* would discard oxygen for at least two i attempts to reach" the summit. Bleeping; for two nights on the mountain above 23,000 ft. The weather then was almost perfect. The peak stood out clear cut in an azure 1 sky. The symptoms of the monsoon had disappeared, but the explorers knew that the monsoon might at any moment burst with full force. Fifteen picked porters, distinguished by the name of "Tigers." were assembled and the staae set for the final attempts. The weather continuing perfect, Mr. Mallory and Captain Bruce and nine "Tigers" established a camp on the north spur on June 1, and began Ihe ascent of the great north ridge on the second in order to establish camp number five; but suddenly a bitter north-west wind nearly : blew the porters off their fret. j The progress was one long flight I against wind and altitude, sometimes on rocks and sometimes on the snow at an i angle of <ir«leg. It was hoped to establish camp five on the sheltered side of the ridge. At 25.300 ft the endurance of the porters began to flag. Only four reached the camp. The remaining five dropped their burden?. Captain Bruce and one of the "Tigers" were forced to make several trips to bring up stores. White men cannot carry loads at these altitudes with impunity, and it is scarcely to be wondered at that Captain Bruce's heart was strained, though happily only temporarily. Thus camp five was finally established. Three picked porters were retained, and the remainder sent back. Obviously everything depended upon the moral and physical condition of these three. Captain Bruce's persuasive powers failed to arouse their enthusiasm for to-morrows ta>k. The wind seemed to have killed their spirits. On the morrow ;it was intended to make an early start, but while preparing breakfast they obtained the most unwelcome news that only one porter was fit to proceed. The. I other two professed to be sick and totally I unable to carry loads. It was fairly I evident that the three porters had shut I their bolt. After a brief consultation I they decided on a return to camp four, and to consider plans for a further attempt. This dispatch covers the movements oi the expedition just prior to Messrs Mallory and Irvine starting on theii fatal attempt for the summit. —"Times." i TWO MISSING MEN. LAST SEEN CLIMBING. , LONDON, June 26. : The latest dispatches from Mount i Everest state that the native porters or . June 7 saw Messrs. G, L. Mallory ant A. C. Irvine, who are reported to have been killed. The missing men were ther going strongly toward the summit of tin mountain. They had apparently attained a height of 28,000 ft on the morning of June 8 After that date there was no news o them, though other members of tin expedition endeavoured by signals anc ' flares to obtain tidings. Major Norton, the leader of the expe dition, expresses the opinion that tin tragedy was due to a simple mountain ' eering accident, and not to the weather [ ("Times.") 1 ~'~ '