Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Auckland Star, Volume LIV, Issue 239, 6 October 1923, Page 20

Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing tfc« following rule's In sending questions for publication in these columns:—

1. Letters should be in not later than Tuesday, to be answered the same week— addressed to Garden Editor, " Star " Offlce, Auckland.

2. Write on one side of the paper, and maKe all communications as concise as possiole.

3. Flowers, etc., sent ror naming- must be sent separately, and, ir Possible, packed In a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be DroKen m transit and the contents damaged. 4. The lull name and address or the sender must always be sent, but a norn de plume or Initial may be given for publication.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. WATTLE (Tauranga) writes:—l have a small bush of Boronia which 1 bought last year. It was a mass oC flowers then. It is budding now, but has only three buds. I have, it in a cut-down Kerosene tin in good soil. Please tell mc what treatment to give it. Should I plant it out In the garden? Please give mc the name of a Bean which bears a large crop fouicthine after the style or a Horse Bran, and suitable to grind for pigs ?■ —The Boronia will do better in the gardeu: they are not satisfactory plants to grow In pots or tins. It docs best in a sandy soil, and requires no manure. A very linn soil is also necessary. The heaviest cropping Bean is the "Hroad Windsor Broad Bean. This is sumeLhing like a Horse Bean, but larger. R.A. (Remiiera) asks the following questions :—(1) Will Australian Myrtle stand trimming and topping? (2) How to take Solanum cuttings and after treatment? (3) How to prune Wistaria? (4) Can you oblige with table of fertilisers show-

i THREE ESSENTIAL PLANT FOODS. All soils should contain a sufficiency of phosphates, nitrogen, and potash, in addition to these three essentials, the presence of lime is necessary. If there is a deficiency of lime this must be made up. Superphosphate is a quick-acting manure, rich in mineral phosphate. It is a splendid fertiliser for roses, and most of the prepared rose fertilisers contain a large proportion of it. The use of superphosphate gives vigour to the trees, and produces strong, healthy shoots and fine foliage. Jsitrogen stimulates the trees when their energy is becoming spent, and it ie also used to give the finishing touch to exhibition blooms, increasing size and adding brightness to the colour. If carelessly used, however, it flushes growth, and there is a tendency for the trees to produce foliage at the expense of blooms. Potash not only imparts vigour during the quick-growing period of early spring, but it also assists in the formation of big flower buds. Thus it will be seen that superphosphate, and artificials that are rich in potash, should be used at the present time to promote that strong, healthy growth which is so necessary before a big floral display can be expected, while the use of nitrogenous ! manures should be regarded more in the I nature of a stimulant. I Basic slag is another phosphatic manure that is also rich in lime. Unlike superphosphate, it is slow acting, and it is usually applied in the autumn. If it ie I applied now, the effect of its use may not be apparent until the final crop of bloom opens. Basic elag is particularly useful on heavy soils, or those of a cold, damp nature. Both superphosphate and basic slag may be applied at the rate of from three to four ounces per square yard. Sulphate of potasl and kainit both contain soluble potash ealts. The latter is cheaper, and because of this is more extensively employed. Use half an ounce of the former, and one ounce of the latter per fcquaro, yard. Wood ashes, if kept dry, contain from fire to ten per cent, of potash. The remains of fires where prunings, dried vegetable matter, or other garden refuse has been burnt, I should be collected and forked into the surface soil at tnc rate of about four ounces to the square yard. Sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda are the two principal nitrogenous manures. The former contains the greater percentage of nitrogen, and is also retained in the soil longer than nitrate of soda. Both are quick-acting, and should not be used until the buds appear, and never in greater proportion than one ounce to the square yard. A good artificial to use at the present time can be made from superphosphate, bone meal (which contains nitrogen as well as insoluble phosphates, these being retained in the soil over a long period), and kainit. if only-a limited number of trees be grown, it is more economical to use one of the prepared fertilisers. These are highly concentrated, and a very small quantity should be used at a time. Generally apply a small teaspoonful to each plant, scattering it on the surface in showery weather, when the rain soon washes it in. It is a good plan to alternate the use of artificials, and apply small quantities at regular intervals of a week or ten days, rather than give big doses once or twice during the season. A weak plant cannot be forced into active growth by the application of artificials. Make it a rule to feed the vigorous trees, and encourage the weaker ones by transplanting at the proper time into new and rich soil. CARE OF GARDEN TOOLS. It is at this time of the year that garden tools are so liable to rust. What Jis more annoying than a rusty epade or fork -with the soil constantly sticking to it. To avoid this, keep handy two pieces of rag or sacking, one dry and the other soaked with kerosene. Before putting away tools, wipe them dry with the former, and rub them over with the latter. Much better results, are accomplished with bright than rusty tools.

ing which may be mixed, etc. I am sure Jt would be helpful to your readers? —(1) Yes. (2) What variety of Solanum is it that you wish to take cuttings of? (3) Prune Wistaria by cutting back tbin weakly lateral growths to within two or three buds of the main stem. This Srunlng should be done directly after owering. (4) Will publish a table In due course. NGUNGTJKU (Whangarei) writes: —l have a piece of ground which is exposed to south winds from the sea, and 1 wish to grow hedges from seed which will act as brekwlnds and also bo cattle proof. Will African Boxthorn and Acacia Vcsticillnta do well In such a position? If so, should single or double rows of seed be planted 1 I wish to plant seed in permanent position. Do you advise putting seed directly under wire or to one side, and how far apart ought young plants be thinned out to?— African Boxthoru and Acacia Verticillata will both do in such a position. The best wind break for an orchard in such an exposed position would be Pinus Insignis, Cupressus Macrocarpa, or C. Lawsoniaua. If you use the Acacia Yertlcillata sow a double row, and keep the first row about a foot from the wires. Personally, 1 should prefer Cupressua Lawsoniana planted about three feet apart. The Acacia should be thinned out to about a foot apart. H.T.J. (Glenmore) writes: —l Bowed several ounces o£ Tomato seed on a hotbed. The seed germinated in due course, but as the rough leaves appeared the first two leaves on each plant turned a pale green, then yellow, and finally withered nnd £ell off. Upon investigation it was found that the roots of the plants wei-o rotting, but new roota were being sent tell mc the cause and the remedy?— The cause is the unsuitable position the roots were in. Either the manure was too hoi or there was too much moisture. It would be better to sow the seed in boxes and stand the boxes on the hot manure. CITRUS (Waiharara) writes :—Enclosed is and my Lemon trees* are infested with the same. I sprayed with 4-4-40 Bordeaux about a mouth ago, but I have noticed no improvement in them. Could you Inform mc what disease it is, and tlic best treatment for the same? —The trouble is a fungoid disease often known as "Anthraeuo.se." The Bordeaux spray ehould check it, but of course nothing can remove the marks on the leaves. I ing, and you will find that the new foliage will come clean. Gather and burn all fallen leaves. BOX (Wuiuku) nsks if the Kowbni is the same as the "Kα Kα Beak" (Clianthua punlccus)?—-No. The Kowhal is gopn-ru Tetraptera, a yellow-flov;ered tree. The Clianthus puniccus is a scarlet-flowered shrub. CHRYSANTHEMUM RUST. Host gardeners aro now gradually working up a stock of chrysanthemums for the coming season. Few gardens are free of the chrysanthemum rust (puccinia hieraei), a fungoid disease that does much damage to the foliage end, if left unchecked, may lead to ruin of a whole batch of plants. The usual method of checking the disease is to spray with sulphide of potassium, half ounce to the gallon of water. Bordeaux mixture 4-4-40, or kerosene emulsion. The most effective method is not to wait for the visible appearance of the disease, but to spray from the present time onward. A good procedure is to dip the cuttings in the solution of sulphide of potassium as before mentioned, previous to planting, then to spray every two or three weeks throughout the season. The spores of the disease lie dormant in the soil and will affect the plants the following season. For this reason the plants should not be grown in the same ground the second season. If they have to be planted in the same ground extra care should be taken that the plants are well sprayed with one of the other mixtures or some \ other fungicide. | TO HASTEN GERMINATION IN A COLD GREENHOUSE. Fill the boxes or pans with soil in the ordinary way, press firm, then water with hot water. Allow the water to go through before sowing the seed, which should be covered lightly. Then place a thick sheet of brown paper over the box for a few days. By this method many kinds of seed will germinate and grow strong, therefore being better I plants for bedding out. 1

SPRAYING HINTS. Spray intelligently, having a definite aim in view, and knowing the results that are expected to follow. Spray thoroughly or not at all. This can be accomplished by the application of a small amount of the spray liquid on every part of the plant, top, middle, bottom. An excess of spray at any particular part is wasteful, and may result in injury to the foliage. Spray in time. A plant cannot be saved after it has become half-destroyed by insects, nor will it fully recover after the tissue have become infected with a fungoid disease. Spray is not a plant cure, it is a plant insurance. ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER. It is surprising that more use is not made of this beautiful climbing plant. Ite abundant racemes of brilliant orange flowers are simply invaluable for climbing archways, trellises, or even (with the aid of a few nails and some twine) bare walls. And, moreover, it is not, like some climbers, thin and lanky, but forms a mass of foliage and flowers from within six inches of the soil to a height of ten feet or more, with stems fourteen feet in height. Its habit is graceful, its foliage is pretty, and' its clusters of flowers are simply dazzling; indeed, its popular name is "The Chilian Glory Flower" or "Trumpet Vine." It is described as a half-hardy annual, but it is really a perennial, and in most parte of the country quite justi-

GENERAL OPERATIONS. i Planting sowing seeds and thinning seedling crops will keep gardeners busy. Time must, however, be found for ent. face cultivation. This is most important,' especially at this time of the year. In the flower garden constant atention ' must be kept on patches of seed sown in ." the beds or borders. The tender seedlings • planted out need some protection from woodlice, slugs, and other ground ver- ' mm. The edges of the beds should be trimmed, and the lawns kept cut. Roses will be starting into growth freely now; and need attention. Look out for the first signs of green fly or mildew, and spray at once. Lime sulphur solution is \ the best, but it must, not be used against paint work, as it turns it black. Carnations will be needing supports for the flowers. The spikes will now be pushing up and unless kept upright from the 3tart they get twisted and broken. Among the vegetables there is plenty to do, in fact he is a happy man that can manage to do all that is

necessary,. Potatoes that are through will need hoeing and spraying. The present State of the Potato market will mean that as soon as there are tubers of any size digging will commence. It will be a good time to plant up anyvacant plots with Potatoes. Peas that are up should be staked, and also a little soil drawn up to them. More Peas can be sown. Dwarf Beans can be sown, but a sheltered corner is advisable, as we often get cold winds in October and the plants are tender. Prepare for next winter by ■sowing Brussel Sprouts, Brocoli, Savoys, Leeks. A little Celery seed sown now will provide plants for putting out in November. Sow a fewVegetable Marrow seeds. Pumpkins, Water Melons and Rock Melons can be sown, but will need a little protection if the weather comes cold and wet. late planted fruit trees will be just starting and watering will assist them. If not pruned it can be done now. Spray Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums as soon as the petals fall, to hold rust and leaf curl in check. Keep the surface of the ground clear of weeds, nl the greenhouse fumigation and spraying will be necessary to keep aphis in check. Put a light shading on the glass, it wilt, save watering and prevent undue evaporation. Of course this does not . apply to Vines or Tomatoes, •which must have all the sun possible. Vines will be growing nicely and ventilation must have careful attention to prevent mildew.

ties the adjective '"hardy." Its culture is quite easy, the seeds which are freely produced, may be sown under glass about August, or outside in September. They must be sown thinly, then they will soon germinate, and the resulting seedlings grow freely. Keep the soil nicely moist and do not let the roots get cramped. Harden them thoroughly and put the seedlings out about the end of October. They will be all the better if transplanted once or twice before the final planting out. Flowering will commence in December and continue until the winter. Any ordinary garden soil will suit them, provided it is well drained, but a little well-decayed manure, added before planting would be a great improvement. Eccremocarpus scaber delights in plenty of sun and will go ahead and cover a large space within a short interval of planting out. Beside the type there is a variety with carmine flowers, and another of a light golden colour, but the orange coloured one (the type) is the best. The seed can be obtained from any eeedsman.