Practical Gardening.

Auckland Star, Volume LI, Issue 104, 1 May 1920, Page 20

Practical Gardening.

By DIANTHUS.

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing the fafknoirug rules: in lending questions for publication in these columns: — 7. Letters should be addressed Garden Editor "Star" Office Auckland 2. Write one one side of the paper, and make all communioations cm !" i concise as possible , 3 Flowers, etc, sent for naming must be sent separately and, if possible, packed in a tin or tcooden boat — cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit and the contents damaged. ... The full name and address of the senior matt mhtftys be sent, but m 1,91- de plume or initial nay be given for publication. *-!- -5 * TEE 'WEEK'S WORK. J __: -, t * * :•; THE FLOWER GARDEN. * * The planting of Narcissi, etc., must be hurried on. _ * Anemones and Ranunculi can still be planted. x "••' Make a sowing of Ten Week Stocks if available plants can be put out. j, "£ Sow Summer and Early Flowering Sweet Peas. 2 . * Put twiggy branches to. plants of sweet peas to support and protect them. J X Cut hedges and get all such work in hand. _|: '.j'. Prepare the list of new Roses required. _\\ Replace any labels that have weathered. \_\ '£ Prepare the ground for new Lawns and top dress old ones. * :j. We9da replace tho grass very quickly In worn-out lawns. * _j: Lift, replant and clip Box edging. * -k Herbaceous borders should be dug, manured and replanted every three * •M years. * * VEGETABLE GARDEN. * "j Get any digging and trenching required done whilst the weather Is good. \ ...Earth up Celery aa it requires it. ._. ; '" %'' Sow a little Cabbage and Cauliflower teed. * I X If plants are obtainable put some out. -Jc :£ 6ow Spinach, Lettuce, Turnips, Carrots. :?■ >i; Lettuce transplants successfully at this season. :'= ■k Keep weeds down by hoeing and digging; if left they harbour slugs. * ** -HHHf-.*********-X-**»K4HW-'-'********»*-< « XX XX X*****-»* ****

BEGONIAS AND GLOXINIAS. Tuberous Degonias and gloxinias are practically done now, and should, in the case of pot plants, have the pot turned over on td their sides; this prevents water from lodging in them. With outside plants leave till 'the frost blackens them, or until they look shabby and the stems begin to break down, then lift the bulbs and stand in boxes in a shed or under cover from rains; once the foliage and stems have died off clean and dry the bulbs thoroughly and store away from frost, etc. HONEYSUCKLE. Many people are so used to consider j the honeysuckle ns a climber that to j mention glowing it as a shrub in the ! open they arc surprised. As a hedge j or bush, a pole or pillar plant it is I equally desirable. Fine globular bushes : can be obtained with three stout stakes 1 set in a triangle at about 2ft apart and j 2ft or 3ft in height. A good plant put in the centre can as it grows be Coiled round the stakes. These bushes will with very little pruning maintain their shape when the supports are gone. Pillar honeysuckles are telling objects in the backgrounds of shrubberies and sueli places. To form these strong rough poles of Bft to 10ft high may be placed as supports. The plants soon run to the top of these, and then fall over in beautiful bold masses. CARNATION LAYERS. These should be well rootod by this time, and the sooner they are planted out in their permanent beds the better The beds should have been preparebeforehand by trenching and nianurinf and' if the bed now receives a dusting of lime it should be ready for the youw layers. Where the ground was not pre . pared before it must be done as sooi , as possible. Dig it well and add soim : well-rotted stable manure, or if this i i not available add a good dressing o • bonedust. After digging it will b. . necessary to tread the bed if plantin; ; is to be done soon after digging. It i . j essential that the carnation beds mus 1J be in full sun; it is useless planting b . j shady positions, or where the soil is no r, well drained. It will stand drought 1 but excessive moisture means failure.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. NOBTHERX Mlokianga) wishes for answers j to the -following:—(tt) Ut the blossoms of _ melons are Inoculated with different . varieties, will It -make any difference to ' trait same year or only to. next crop v grown from that seed? '(2) "VVliut Is the ( ca-use of watermelons being (n) hollow and i mushy, Ob) thick rind.—(l) -Cross fertlllsa- ' tion of melons- will not affect tlie fruit. £ It Is only 'When the seed saved from the _ cross-fertilised fruits is sown that the 11 results will "be seen. C 2) "Watermelons I often -become hollow aud 'mushy, when!' overripe; it may "be due -to a cold or wet j t spell causing, premature ripening. Thiel: I j rind in watermelons Is often due to the ] variety or It may alsu *be due to preuia- ! * ture ripening as aibove. ESPALIER (One-Tree Bill; asks for the , names of about BO trees, including early and late apples, pears and peaches, suit- 1 able ior growing as espaliers:—Apples— , 'Early: IRhodes' Orange. Scarlet IPearmaln,! [Medium: -Cox's Orange iPI-ppin, Canada I Kelnette. Late: Delicious, Gem, 'Sharp's ! Late tßeti. 0? ttlrlgg's Tied i _v"ay, Akarana. 'Golden -Queen, ISea 1 Bugle, Kalamazoo. 'Nectarine: Gold-1 mine. New IBoy. IPears—"Early: lonise (Bonne of Jersey. Marie Louise, Doyenne ! d"Etc, Fertility, "Vicar ot Wlnk-fleM. 'Late: ■Winter Nells, IPnckham *Late, IP. Barry. _3enrre IFonqueray. MEADOW RUE. The meadow rue (Thalictrum Dipterocarpum) is apparently becom•wliich it is viewed when first seen is evidence that it will eventually find its way into most gardens. Its height, 4ft to sft, renders it excellent for the back row of a border in a small garden. It is not an aggressive plant by any means, land must be given ample space away from coarse-growing plants. The pretty rose-purple flower is well contrasted ■by the citron-yellow anthers, and as they are attached hy delicate foot stalks the whole inflorescence has the appearance of a pyramid of rose-purple bells with yellow tongues. The plant is a perennial, but is easily raised from seed; in fact seedlings from autumn-sown seed give as good results as older plants. - Sow the seed thinly in shallow drills, outside, and when large enough prick out the seedlings two or three inches apart. Tlie plants will be ready for planting out in tbeir permanent quarters early next spring. When planting do not put tho plants too far apart— eight to nine inches is far enough—and give them good soil. If {frown for cutflower purposes, it i« better to grow them in beds.

INCREASING ANCHUSA ITALICA. To increase this lovely perennial is very simple. Anyone'having an old plant may , propagate a score or two plants. Dig the • old plant up, and cut off the old roots, ranging from half an inch to an inch in i diameter. Cut these in lengths of from ; three to four inches, and insert them in a ] pan of sandy soil two inches apart, just i allowing the tops to be visibly above the i soil. In preparing the cuttings take a i little off from tho side of the root end, so : as to get them in right way when insert- '. ing them. Place tho pan in a frame or 1 propagator, and in a short time they will i callus over and begin to grow. When I they have grown sufficiently keep moving ] them on and allowing them more room j either in pots or boxes. Being a hardy perennial, they may be planted out when we are about free from frosts (according to locality), after being well hardened off. WAX PLANTS. The Hoyaa may be successfully cultivated by observing the following directions:—They should have plenty of water in summer, and should be kept rather dry when at rest. The compost should consist of good loam, with a little peat and some crocks broken email mixed with it. A branch layered in a 0-in pot will soon root and make a plant, or break a leaf off with the stalk, and put round a pot side just above the heel. Temperature from 60 to 70 degrees in the day, falling at night to about 50 degrees. CLEANING FOLIAGE PLANTS. When cleaning aspidistras and other broad-leaved plants, sponge thoir leaves with a little milk instead of water. Tliis makes them stiffen, and gives a beautiful glossy appearance for several weeks. HEDGES. Hedges of some sort arc necessary on every section. Discretion must be j used so that they are not overdone. One good hedge in the right place and of the I right sort is worth three or four bad | ones. The choice of what plant is used j to form the hedge is a matter for the | owner, but thero are plants to suit all ! I tastes and requirements. The only | I hedge that has not yet been discovered . is the one that will grow without at- | tention. When a hedge is put in, the . thief aim is that it should be effective . as quickly as possible. Now this means that the better and quicker tbe hedge grows during the first few years the , better. To have this effect it is as well ; to remember that hedge plants, like i everything else, like good, well-prepared i soil. This is where many of our hedges j arc failures—there is absolutely no at- j tempt at preparing the ground, and yet j we -wish it to grow twice as fast as any other plants in tho garden. The present is a good time to prepare the ground for new hedges. Dig it deeply or trench it if possible. A strip at least three feet wide should be prepared. Add some bonedust and stable manure if available at the time of digging, and let the ground settle for a few weeks prior to planting. After planting, the surface of the soil around the plants should be kept free ol weeds. PATHS. Clean, tidy paths add much to tlie ' smart appearance of even the smallest I garden, and any necessary repairing should be attended to now.- Remove weeds as far as possible, and give a dressing of some approved weed-killer during suitable weather. Finally roll well and make quite firm. SOIL FOR FRAMES. When preparing frames for cuttings of violas, calceolarias, etc., mix some fumigant with the soil, and thus avoid the i incursions of insect pests, which are only i too ready to tako up their winter quarters there.

CYCLAMEN. These beautiful winter flowering plants, hardy about Auckland, will now be showing flowers, and if they have not _ 'been topdressed this season, now is the _ time to do it. Well-rotted manure or leaf t soil are both good for top-dressing. Put _ on quite an inch, and even more if it is c available. The plants can be transplanted, t too, at this time of the year. Shade is- j necessary, and frequent syringings are of ~ benefit, helping to keep down insect pests. s The worst pest is the cyclamen mite, a _ small, almost invisible insect which eats a away the under side of the leaves, and _ otherwise disfigures them until they r eventually die right away. Spraying with c nicotine, especially in the form of Black t Leaf 40, is particularly good, and at the t same time is effectual against aphis and c thrips, both pests being particularly fond j of the cyclamen. Seedlings raised from seed sown in the early autumn will now \ be nice little plants ready for potting off into small pots. The3e plants, if kept growing, will make the 'best flowering J plants for this time next year", but they | must be kept shaded and growing throughout the summer. Old conns that have been kept dry should be brought out and planted. Give them some good soil, and do not break the roots, being careful ' to put the roots straight down. If the, soil is at all dry give a good soaking of water, for the cyclamen requires abundance of water during the growing season. PERPETUAL FLOWERING CARNATIONS. Those who rooted cuttings of these . glorious winter flowering plants last j spring will now have good plants in . active growth. The flower stems should ' be loosely tied to the stakes, and dis- _ budded as soon as possible so as to allow . all the strength to concentrate on the terminal bud. This disbudding is more neces- • sary with tliis carnation than any other ' for the reason they flower in winter when the weather conditions are against them, , and to expect the plants to bring to per- '' fection as many flowers as tbey would in summer is out of the question. If left ' without disbudding and staking burst and poor blooms are the result. Where they are grown in pots in a greenhouse the same applies, with the addition that! • plenty of ventilation must be kept on the | > house, except in very rough cold weather, • for the protection needed is not so much i from cold as frm wet. \ FEEDING PERPETUAL 1 FLOWERING CARNATIONS. \ It is well to realise that there is no j other plant just like the perpetual j flowering carnation, which lives a | strenuous life, growing without rest for ' I the twelve months of the year, so that ? if it is unduly forced or fed during any one season, it must suffer at another ) i season. This is particularly so in the autumn, with the dark dull days of : winter ahead'; any forcing methods by 3 the use of manures will be .felt in tins production of soft, sappy growth-. which may appear vigorous enough, but will fail when the winter comes ou. If the plants were properly handled and s good fresh loam, with a little bonedust d and wood ashes used for potting, there r. should be no need yet awhile for feeding. d The plants standing outside till now will », be making, perhaps, not a lot of growth, g 'but some good firm, wiry stems, with g curly blue-green foliage. The most for- -- ward of these will be now sending up n flower buds, and a little manure may be le given occasionally. This applies" to is plants that were struck from cuttings it put in during the past winter, and spring >c and equally so whether the plants are ig planted in open beds or in pots. Give is a thing scattering of bonemeal, also a 3t sprinkling of wood ashes around' each in plant. This should bo worked into tbe .t surface lightly, not deeply,' or the roots t, will be damaged. This application (should be repeated about every month.

EARTHING UP LEEKS TOR EXHIBITION. After having practised, for a number of years, tbo many and varied ways of growing leeks for exhibition, the following method of earthing-up is tbe best, and can be recommended with every confidence to readers. After the leeks are planted, and the collars placed iv position, etc., instead of filling up tbe trench in the usual way, place a few ehort posts along it on both sides, leaving them I. about three inches or so from tbe sides. . Next place a board about nine inches]•' broad ou edge, and secure it lightly toj' the posts 'with nails (the idea being to ; form a box-like structure). Into this put your soil, and when level with the ; bonrd, place another one about tbe same width (edgewise) on top of the first board, and nail to posts, and continue filling in soil in the usual way. By placing the soil only in the boxlike structure a clear space of three inches or so is left all round the sides of the trench. This method has a great advantage over tbe old one of banking up the soil, as the space left between the sides of the trench and the boards enables the grower to feed and water flic plants with tbe greatest ease; besides this, the roots are not buried from the influence of the sun, etc. NEXT YEAR'S STRAWBERRIES. IMPROVING THE STRAIN OF PLANTS. The Auckland Provincial Fruitgrowers' Co-operative Society has lately ,-Aleiided its activities in tne direction of helping its members to overcome the difficulty of obtaining reliable strains of strawberry plants. It is common knowledge that the plants supplied in the past have been variable in the extreme, and particularly where native growers were concerned, no effort has been made to maintain the best strains for vigour and productivity. Tbe Co-operative I Society are now propagating strawberry ! plants on land which has been leased I from- the natives at Batley. The plants that have been used to produce the I runners were taken from a small planI tation which had been under observation i for some time. Seven thousand of these j were planted out in different places 1 round Auckland, to test their fruiting I qualities, which proved to be of the ' best. The balance of the bed was re- ! served for planting out to make runners I for this season, with the result that a ' magnificent lot of plants was avail- | able. The land was well prepared before ! planting out, and has been kept well ! cultivated throughout the season till the runners prevented further work. j All poor plants were described, and j only the best and most productive used j for propagation. Tbe same practice will be observed this year, and though I considerably more plants have been I raised than the members of the society will require, a number of the best will 'be reserved to provide for a future j supply. Tbey are all Marguerites, with i the exception of one very good lot of Duke of Edinburgh,*. It is intended to I carry out experiments witli "Royal Sovc- [ reigns, and endeavour to work up a I reliable strain nf tliis line berry. It is , thought that in this way it will be possible to educate public taste in favour of | flip -uitii'i'ior berry, and at the same time , • provide a strain of plants of these varieties which will be sufficiently re- ' liable and productive for growers to [ handle with confidence.

GRAPE VINE FROM AN EYE. To obtain a vine from an eye, get tbe side-hoots cut from the vine at pruning time (or dormant leaf-buds you might call them). Chose the strongest, and cut the wood off, leaving about one inch on either side of the bud. Then peg it down in a small pot of rich soil, and plunge tbo pot into a hotbed. Very soon the eye will burst just the same a<" if it was on the vine. When rooted shift into a larger [pot, still keeping it warm and moist. The iyoung vine must bo kept growing I strongly, and about December it will be lit. to go into a fruiting pot. It must ho | syringed every day to keep it free from insects, (live liquid manure once or twice a week. At tlie end of the. season it will have made a nice rod about ten feet long, which can be planted the next season, but must not be allowed to bear many bunches of fruit the first season. GATHERING BRUSSELS SPROUTS. When Brussels sprouts first come into use one in often in the habit of tearing them oil' with part of the stem adherI ing to them. Now, if a knife is used instead, and the sprouts cut, leaving aa much of the stem as possible,-the labour well repays itself, for in early spring, when greens are generally scarce, it will bo found there is a mass of young shoots starting into growth and lit for use. SEEDLINGS AND WEEDS. In raising plants from seed, amateurs | often experieneo some difficulty in identi- • fying the seedling plants from weeds, particularly those plants they aro unacquainted with. The method to adopt is to fill 'boxes with suitable soil, placing ! them in a warm greenhouse. In a very ' short time a crop of weeds appears; ' these I remove, and then sow my seeds.