FASHIONS FROM PARIS

Auckland Star, Volume XLVI, Issue 229, 25 September 1915, Page 17

FASHIONS FROM PARIS

(By a Parisian Expert.)

PARIs. Fuly 13. THE DOMINANT NoTK HI:. REASON. For several seasons p.i-t the cry iias been heard, "This is a s.lk year.'' Probably the wish was ratio-: t.j t»■ thought; but. as a matter of fa-t. mis. really is first favourite, he-an-.- .1 is suitable for al! occasion*. Then- 1= nothing sn.-arter for morning wear t'-..in a simply male coaler and sk:r! of navy or tete de negrr taffetas, .-r a »'.i in pros gram or faille. There is also a silk poplin much in ■b.'ii.inl. supple mil thiirrning of tevtnre. -..-; with enough body to lend itself well to tail-,ring, which is beginning to find a place among tailoring fabrn-s. aril some admirable costumes fiushion'-l f:--:i tills material have been brought out this season. OCR SKETCH. The illustration on this page represents «n afternoon gown of siik poplin and white cloth, fashioned on desirably simple lines, with a trim little coatee of the poplin, finished with a band of white rlorh lightly embroidered and soutache, the high turn-hock collar, cut in the latest style, hemp similarly adorned. The roatce itself, and the lower part of the wrde skirt, are carried out m tete da negro silk poplin. You will see thai •the upper part of the skirt is a.so of white cloth, embroidered in silver

threads. This costume would look delightfully fresh and cool in lavender and white, or in nattier blue and prey, or in black and white; the combinations arc endless. The little toque which tops our model is nlso worthy of interest, since it represents one of the latest and most becoming shapes or the season. It is made of very rich ivory corded silk, and trimmed with black aigrettes arranged and twisted about the crown in an entirely novel manner.

how the wind of fashion* blows: From the centre of inspiration it may interest those who are perforce pushed to the consideration of new clothes to learn that the corsage-fitted back and front is an accepted decree. This even applies to evening toilettes. There is a strong feeling, moreover, for a sort of cuirass effect Sometimes the latter takes form in a plain straight front, with slightly rucked underarm piecesAgain, one material will be used, literally fashioned like a cuirass, and buttoned either side on to a bodice of contrasting material. This occurred m the case of a black chiffon taffetas and taffetas faille afternoon gown, the taffetas being used for trie titled bodice, on to the cuirass of which the silk was buttoned. The skirt was entirely composed of silk, the extremely full tuuic forming a point either side, being faced up with velvet, and the [saints weighted with tassela to prevent any undue swinging about. A supremely original idea for evening wear is a chiffon bodice with a flounced tulle skirt. A scheme after this genre was extraordinarily effective in old bine chiffon for the corsage, and three flounced skirts of white tulle, each flounce trimmed with a deep hem a jour and ornamented down the left side with three quaint bows oi the chiffon, the eiuLs fringed with silver beads; while a further unusual touch was afforded in shoulder straps supporting wee tulle sleeves and a narrow ceinture of ermine.

THE TULLE RUFFLE. Every other woman is wearing a maline ruff now. There i s a gaiety and a becomingness about these airy neckfrills that bring thorn perennially back into fashion. Just now the tuile ruff is made very coquettish by a rose of pink satin >*hich snuggles against it, just under its wearer's ear. A gTey tulle ruff with a pink rosu is enchanting, worn by a woman with a touch, of colour in the chcckij. Pale women look best in tulie ruffs of navy blue shade. The tan tulle neck-frills are not becoming, but they may be made more so by an inner plaiting of black tulle. Hlack tulle ruffs are exceedingly chic with black and white costumes, but they si .uld never be donned with a coloured fro, k. White starched collars and Windsor ties have a spick-and-span smarLm-.s-s on young girls, but they are trying to older women. The effect may is- imitated "with a coat collar of whit.- pniue, not as exaggerated in as the round Eton collar, and a (lowing "made" tie of hemmed black pussy willow taffetas. --r, better still, of black and whit.- pussywillow in one of the new diam .n 1 cheek patterns. Such a tie. e:it fuller and longer than the ready-made Windsor of the neckwear counter, has rimtinetion and dash, and gives mu-li style to a simple tailored costume.

PETTICOAT?. Xew petticoats of peacock blue pussywillow taffetas have five scalloped flounces from hem to hip, or a very -.vide flare flounco scalloped at the e-lg C and attached to a fitted hip yoke. As petticoats grow wider, their price goes up; but a very smart model may be had for from 2o frnnc B to 50 francs.