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I NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS. Apple and Rose Cuttings (E.O.).—Though codlin varieties of apple may be pro- ' pagatod from goodly-sized branch cuttings, real success seldom follows; other ; forms, cannot be so treated. Rose cuttings prepared, as you say, with a'heel, may be prepared and dlbbered in the open ground > from early in' October. , Blanching Celery (A3.C.).-So far as we t are aware, paper is only used for blanching the sticks, as an adition to moulding them up. It is wrapped round the sticks before they are moulded. Brovn paper , is employed to keep the sticks clean and . free from injury by grobnd pests. • . _ HiNTg. _'_ _~:;..:.. 1 Tripoli onions, prominent good varies ties of which are Giant ROcca, in variety, j.and Globe Tripoli for winter standing, ! should be sown towards the end of the curent week. It is best to sow the seed • ' in. shallow drills eight inches asunder. ,_'• Tread the seed into . the grdundy.'wheh ' t sown, .and slightly cover it over. .Hodv'erateiy thick sowings are desirable to 2 meet, all I contingencies. 'Early potted freezias, which _ rapidly ' commence growing, give as light a posi- • tioh as possible to, with a fair modicum * of fresh air as soon as the leaves become 1 an;inch or. two high, and, the pots re-f l quire: removal from the material they ? were- buried? in. Want of greater success » in their culture results from the plants f becoming overdrawn, owing to too. much •; warmth-or insufficient fresh air and •jlvrh*' • -f

Lettuce and endive seedlings can now I be transplanted 'upon^ '-vacant sheltered: 'Sites "in "instances where there* isTi'de-: mand for salads during the winter and early spring months. By the 1 simple pro-: cess o ftransplanting them somewhat' thickly together in beds they become hardier, withstand adverse winter weather better. Dibble both out somewhat deep,: endives particularly bo, to ensure it all; the protection possible from cold winds.: When thinning the seed beds it is well to let a few plants remain therein, as they may also pass through the winter'successfully. Strawberties.-rSome weeks ago I advised my readers who may grow a small: patch of strawberries, to prick out the young runners in a cool, shady spot, and' keep them well watered. Those who have followed this advice. should now have a batch of good, well-rooted plants, which should be ready to plant out on the first favourable opportunity. If the break of groun dwhich they are to occupy is not already prepared, it should be done .at once. In preparing the soil, it should, if; possible, be trenched, or, at least, dug to the full depth of the spade and well manured, liter manure being the best when possible to procure it. While digding it is better to. leave the surface as Tough as possible, so that .the. sun's rays and the atmosphere may-have a greater play upon it. After, it has been; laboured for a week or so, the surface can easily be broken up finely; in fact, this breaking up finely should only be done as rain, is expected. As soon as the first heavy: rain has come, the young plants should be planted out at once. In lifting the young plants, try and get a fine ball of earth i .with each plant, as a little earth .attached to the roots will be a great advantage to the success of the planting. It will also be better to lift only a dozen or; two plants at a time, and those continuing, lifting and planting only a; few at a time till all is This system of planting will avoid leaving a large numb&r of plants with their roots for 'a? long time exposed to the action of; the atmosphere, which would be very detrimental. Another good plan is to .give.each puintl a good toaking of water immediately after planting. This will immediately settle them to the soil. The distance to plant will be regulated by the circumstances of each grower, but I have found that' a convenient distance for comparatively small gardens is about 20in from row to row, and about 15in apart in the rows. Ssome plant at greater and some at lesseri distance, but the above distance will give :'each plant sufficient room to develop and fruit, while at the same time there will be sufficient room left between the plants to do all the necessary work of keeping them clear, etc. A week.or two after planting, if the weather sets dry again- it will be necessary to keep watering till more rain comes. Now, though I would not recommend this early planting' to large growers who grow for market-ras the watering in a dry season could not be undertaken, still many private growers who may only plant a few hundred plants every season will find it the most efficacious for the ' following reasons: Planting early in the autumn will get the plants well established long before the cold weather sets'in; not only established, but where they have been well treated, they will gro wto a considerable size before the winter, and when the spring begins to advance, they will at once start to grow strongly. Thus you get plants which will fruit earlier, and*also • give much better crops than if the planting were deferred till the ordinary wet season sets in. If the planting is towards .the end of March or the beginning of April. there will be about six weeks or more of growing weather. This will not only cause the plants to grow, but will aUo bring away numerous weeds as well; and it will be found necessary to give the break of ground a slight forking abonl the middle or end of May. This May forking should be sufficient till the usual cleaning up, which should take place just before the plants begin to grow vigorously in the spring.

is one of the best and most prolific of winter and early spring flowering plants which we possess. There is a great variety in the colour and markings of the flowers, and from this cause it should be extensively used as a winter and spring bedding plant. It will always look well, eitheT planted singly in the mixed border or en masse in a bed. Where it is used en masse for bedding the tubers in the spring will ripen off and be ready for lifting in plenty of time to give an opportunity to fill up the beds with summer bedding plants. With mc this I plant keeps in flower from about the middle of June till the middle of November, and as the warm weather sets in about this period the tubers rapidly ripen off, when.they can be lifted, dried, and stored past for the summer months. The cultivation of the anemone requires no great amount of skill. All that is necessary is that it should be grown in rich soils, from which superfluous water rapidly drains, off. The plants are easily increased from seed. Until the young plants come into flower tbecul-' tivator 13 always speculating upon what combinations of colour he will produce. The cultivation is as follows:—The ripe seed should be gathered* from the plantt during September and October, choosing only such from the best flowers..' After picking the seed it should be dried for a few days, and afterwards placed in a dry place till wanted for Bowing. About the beginning of April a bed consisting of rich, light soil should be made up in a warm, sunny situation. Upon this the seed should be thinly sown in lines about six inches apart, and just merely covered over and the surface of the bed slightly pressed with the back of a spade. The seed being of a woolly nature, is difficult to sow regularly unless it is first mixed with a little dry sand: these two should be slightly rubbed together, bo as to separate the steeds, when sand and seeds may be sown together. The germinating power of the seed is very slow, so that the keeping "of the bed free of weeds is a work of care. These should be handweeded in the seedling state, so as to disturb the surface of the bed as little as possible. Some time about the end of May the little seedlings will begin to make .their appearance, and as . the winter they will increase in growth, and towards September many of them: -will "■ flower. As the warmer weather sets in during October and November the tubers will begin tp ripen off, as will be shown by the foliage beginning to get yellow and withering away. Whenever the foliage has all withered away the tubers will be ready, for > liftings and this should'beydpne-with-care, as many oi them will ]ta so that ■it will be hard take them "'all up. After lifting, the tubers should be packed away in dry. sand, and' placed ,in a dry place. Those small tubers; of one year's grpwth, in my estimation, will make far better flowering' plants 'next season than. twQ?year plants: therefore; it would be desirable for those' who may wish to cultivate 'continuously to every season have a batch of seedlings coming on to take'the place of ' older tubers.: Tear-old . tubers J(whieh may be obtained, from any seedsman) should be planted during the nest two or three weeks. ,\

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THE GARDEN., Auckland Star, Volume XL, Issue 90, 16 April 1909

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THE GARDEN. Auckland Star, Volume XL, Issue 90, 16 April 1909

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