Latest London Fashions.

Auckland Star, Volume XXIII, Issue 102, 30 April 1892, Page 4 (Supplement)

Latest London Fashions.

(from our special correspondent.)

London, February 22. The ' Brighton ' hat shapes thab wore so very popular in straw last summer have been revived with considerable favour in felt thia winter. Few shapes are moro comfortable or useful for knock-about wear than these are ; for travelling to and fro to daily occupation (tho route of so many girls and women nowadays), shopping, or any occasion when keoping in order and comfort are moro desir.iblo qualifications than fancifulnoas of style, they will be found a capital and inexpensive investment.

For these folt shapes a plain ribbon of corresponding colour placed round the crown is the u«ual trimming, but as this soverity of stylo is too trying for many faces, a slight break in this hard-and-fast arrangeuionb is sometimes required.

My first sketch shows an example of variation both pretty and becoming. The hat is of dark heliotrope felt, corded silk ribbon, or ribbon velvet of the same shade is arranged round tho crown, and in three Vandykes in front as indicated in sketch, and faatoned by a long buckle of jetted beads. Grey felt, volvot, and steel buckle also looks remarkably well in the samo design. At a matinee I was much Btruck with the variety of chapeaux worn. Largo and

small seem equally fashionable. Ono pretty and uncommon littlo toquo was made of tissue of r.'old, veiled over with black tulle, behind which was adapted tho mona of the Spanish toreadors. Tho mona is a sore of little plaited chignon, such as tho toreadors near at the baclc of their heads. In the case I mention the mona was of gold pleating, well piantcd at the back of the head and attached to the hafc. There see.ns likely to bo a large amount of braiding employed in the trimming of gowns and jackets this winter in every form, which is cause for rejoicing as far as effect goes, it giving a superior appearance to the garment, and lifting it above common imitations — a very desirable matter to achieve nowadays, when everything thab ia introduced is reproduced in a painfully cheap style a week after, at so much aud tho inevitable three farthings. A stylish jacket, or bodice, for walking costume with braided trimmings, forms the subject of the second sketch.

This model is made oi mignonette cloth, embroidered with vcvy dark green braiding, over turn-over collar, vest, boll sleeve?; and ekirt, or hip pieces, of jacket, cords and barrel button fastenings finishing it. With this jacket a quite plain slurb of mignonette cloth is worn, a dark preen felt ' Ravenswoud,' or three-cornered folfc hat trimmed with green velvet to correspond. Braiding is such a pleasant occupation, that no doubt a good deal of it will be done by deft fingers at homo. It requires to bo well done, however, nob to tell tales of its workmanship. Too often, puckered braiding disfigures the amateur-made garment.

The swallow-tails of a gentleman's dress coat arc now being really worn, as I foretold soma" months back they' would be, having then already started in Paris. They are worked into the half-length jacket bodices in the manner the third sketch illustrates, cut up just beyond the hip to allow of' giving ' and the tails so to divide off to themselves.

This style only looks well in quite a plain tailor-mado gown, of tweed, woollen, or good dark bluo navy serge, the material composing the model from which our sketch is taken.

Thia is also finished off by cordings of white braid edging and corresponding buttons. Tho skirt is plain and ' gorged ' at the back, as, we are sorry to say, all aro now being made ; not only on account of it being a moft inartistic method, bub that ib will entail sufficient length to sweep up dust and mud without additional elegance ; for though a long sweep of Bofb drapery

foWs adds to the graco and dignity of the feminine form divine, the&o demi-semi bits are no improvement whatever, but simply convey all the dust and dirt they collector) to tho petticoats, shoes and stockings of the wearer.

I have two very dainty evening dresses to describe. Here is a pretty one. It is of princess shape, green crene de chino embroidered with dots and trimmed with poppies. The dress, with the fronts and backs, open over a centrepiece of lace, opening in square, forming a sort of chemise gathered to a head. Braces formed of poppies cross over the front and at the lower part of the figure. Catche3 are at the sides and at tho front of the bosom ; sides ot the back of tho corsage lose themselves in an overset of drapery, which forms on each side over the hip?. The linings of the front closo at the middle over the lace. Sleove3 short and full.

Yet another, and this also of the popular princess shape, is of maizo faillo and aubergine velvet, the trimming of black feathers and gold embroidery. The front forms an apron, adjusted by pleats, open in the form of a corselet festooned over the top of the corsago of velvet and open in V shapo. The lower part of the front embroidered, and lace point over a band of tigbtly-dravvn velvet and brought over the point. Black feathers surround the point. The lining of tho front is closed at tho centre and is closed with pleats. An invisible closing at the front of tho corselet. Princess back of silk open in V shape over a kind of flab scarf of velvet. Sides of black, pleats of skirt furnished from the baok. A cordon of embroidery surrounds tho back and rises over the sides to a height of |ifty centimetres. Sides of the dress open over an underskirt of velvet. The sleeves short, of draped bilk, open over an ample centre of velvet. Rosellu.