GARDEN TOPICS

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 67, Issue 47, 5 December 1946, Page 3

GARDEN TOPICS

(Written for the " Guardian ” by Mr D. H. Leigh).

FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES

VEGETABLE GROWING

At this time of the year there is a natural tendency to grow an overabundance of summer vegetables, and we are apt to neglect the adequate provision for next winter. This may be attributed to the recent scarcity of produce and severe late frosts, after which everyone seems to rush the sowing of endless lines of the quick-maturing varieties. Now that a good many crops have been ruined by frost- damage, it may be as well to reconsider your planting programme. . Cauliflower and broccoli are two of the most nutritious vegetables, having a very high protein content, and they are rich in lime and phosphates, the importance of which in human nutrition needs no emphasis. These crops require very rich soil; ground that has been well trenched and manured, and with a liberal application of lime followed by frequent top-dressings of I balanced fertiliser. They are gross feeders and get greedier with age. Experiments have shown that they consume 10 times as much lime, nitrogen, potash and phosphates in their fifth month as they have taken up during the whole of the previous four months of growth. Lime, nitrogen and potash are the most essential elements, together with a comparatively small amount of phosphates; the latter are absorbed in greater proportions as the flowering [stage approaches. These details go to show the necessity for the frequent top-dressings with fertilisers, and the' ashes of garden refuse which should always be conserved for this purpose. Brussels sprouts and celery are also highly nutritious vegetables and ■should certainly be given a trial. See that young plants are thoroughly hardened off and are well watered in at planting time. Celery can be grown successfully only with a continuous and copious supply of water; nothing is more injurious than drought conditions, and remember that self-blanch-ing varieties do not require earthing up, they can be grown on the flat without the laborious business of malting a trench, and young plants should be lined-out without delay. October and early November sowings of carrots,- parsnips, silver beet, onions and beetroot I’equire consistent cultivation and thinning out where necessary. These crops will benefit very considerably by surface mulching with lawn mowings and grass trimmings, Due care ought to be taken to avoid using growths of weeds that have developed seeds, but,-, short , strawy material is ideal for placing between the rows. Also it must be emphasised that great care should be taken before using the mulchingmaterial to ensure that the ground has been thoroughly • hoed a couple of ' inches deep, otherwise the full benefits of mulching will not result. Rhubarb is another crop that derives much benefit from mulching. ' The turn of the year from spring to summer in a normal season comes so suddenly, but this year the “turn” seems to have been prolonged, and much to the detriment of many crops, and I recommend the use of a quickacting stimulant to invigorate those that have suffered through late frosts *nd cold. A handful of sulphate of ammonia in a large can of water Avill soon, and surprisingly soon, restore their complexion. Peas, beans, cabbages and potatoes quickly respond to this treatment, and it is well worth trying.

THE FLOWER GARDEN The lifting and storage of spring flowering bulbs has much to commend it. It enables you to replan your spring display, and, with the division of the bulbs, make a much more extensive arrangement; or you may desire to group the different kinds in fresh parts of the garden, and surplus bulbs you can always give to your public Domain, which has received during the last eight years nearly a quarter of a million bulbs from generous contributors. , Generally speaking bulbs may be lifted as soon as their leaves start to become discoloured. Place them in shallow boxes and keep them in a cool, shady place with a good circulation of air. Allow their leaves to remain intact until the bulbs are thoroughly ripened, when they can be cleaned and stored in readiness for planting out after your summer bedding plants are finished. Dahlias that have been badly frosted usually come away again within a week or so. It is a case of having a little patience and leaving them alone, and do not cut away their blackened growths, as the cut surfaces may bleed. Plants that were previously well established will benefit by a. little sulphate of ammonia, which should be well watered in.

Climbing roses are now producing strong growths, which will produce next year’s flowers. In oi;der .that these growths may not be damaged, it is wise to tie in'the majority of them. They should, however, not be tied in so tightly as to cause a stiff unnatural appearance. Keep a sharp watch for greenfly and mildew and spray at intervals with a reliable combination spray. SPECIAL COMPOSTS The better the gardener the greater is the care which he,bestows on the making of composts in which seeds are raised, seedlings pricked out, plants potted, and for the growing of special subjects. The perfect compost must be free from pests and diseases which attack young plants, and this means adopting some means of partial sterilisation. A simple method of improvising this process is by placing, the soil in a suitable container and suspending it in a copper of boiling water; once the soil has reached boiling point it should be kept at that temperature for about half an hour. Leafmould and loam should be processed separately. A few days after sterilisation the various ingredients may be mixed together, and it is as well to add one ounce of super phosphate per bushel of compost; practically all garden composts are deficient in phosphates.

GARDEN REFUSE It Is well worth while to give careful attention to the composting of refuse and to deliberately set out to produce a valuable manure, rather than merely to use up certain vegetable refuse, which is not quite the same thing. An important point in the "indoor process” of composting is the initial loose building of the heap to facilitate the action of fungus producing bacteria. This looseness is insisted upon, whereas a common cus-

tom when making and adding to the compost heap is to firm it well by treading. It seems likely that this firming, while no doubt producing a quicker and greater heat, may ultimately slow up the final stages of decomposition.