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Pages 1-20 of 78

Pages 1-20 of 78

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Pages 1-20 of 78

Pages 1-20 of 78

English
CONTINUATION of J O U R N A L. of SIR DONALD McLEAN. K.C.M.G. Started at 5 a.m. with Mr. W.B. Baker, Junr. for Turanganui; where I met an old deformed woman, shrunk up from age; who had seen Capt. Cook. She was named Hine Kapu. She gave an account of a native, named Rakau, having been killed by Cook's party; and another wounded. At the time she describes herself to have been 16 years old. She is quite clear in intellect, and retentive in memory, describing minutely every small circumstance connected with Capt. Cook's visit. Mr. Dunlop, nephew of the Terrineat, the great dry salter at Glasgow, is a sensible well read man; who has spent some years in a German University, and travelled a good deal. His ideas of the manner in which the natives should be treated are very good, and indicate a superior intellect. The natives at Turanganui appear very civil, and better conducted than at the Wainui, Mr. Harris'. A McGregor, a young man from Coromandel harbour, who owns and commands a schooner, the ''Dauntless'', gives me a deal of information, respecting Puhatta Taniwha, and other Chiefs connected with that district. McGregor seems an active, industrious Highlander. He and his brother have erected a saw-mill at ''Kikowakarere'', a wide bay, where there are several European sawyers and carpenters living, with Paora, the Chief. Bought a saddle for Kani, £4. Flora McLean,£1, by McGregor. Rawiri, the Chief, came in from his plantations, and had a long conversation with me on various subjects, especially as to thefts, and other crimes. He seems a sensible, well-behaved man, nearly related to Te Kani Otakirau, the greatest Chief on this coast; who has also made his appearance, with his train of followers. He seems anxious for a Korero; and I shall remain here, and spend the day with him. He seems to know that New Zealand is a small insignificant Island, compared to the other possessions of the British Crown, some of which, including America, he ennumerated. He said he was glad to have seen me; that he always was fond of Europeans; and poor whalers, and others destitute of means, ever found a refuge in his house, and clothes, and food, when they were in want. I told him that his attention to all Europeans was generous and good, and should not be forgotten by the Government; that the object of my wishing to see him was to explain the nature of the arrangements I had to carry out with the natives of Ahuriri, and Wairarapa; that they had all come in one canoe; that he was the steersman, and that he would naturally feel anxious to know how the foremost crew acted. I then explained to him the views of the Government, respecting the land question; which pleased him much. He said that Turanga had too many Chiefs; and that their talk was childish; that they required time to consider what they were doing; and when all were agreed, he should then consider the purchase a good one; that Ahuriri and Wairarapa should be purchased first; then that this quarter would follow; but that some of the natives were very bad; stole form the Europeans, and made no reparation for their offenses. He seems a cheerful, clever, shrewd man; greatly admired and idolized by his followers. I told him I should like to have a horse to go back with, like his black one. He said, - "That you shall!", and brought up the animal, saddle, bridle, and all; which he carefully, and with some degree of graceful action, placed before me. I asked whether, if I returned him a mare, that would be sufficient remuneration for the animal. He said, "Yes." In the evening I bought a new saddle and bridle from Smith; who had not sufficient money to pay for the horse; but I said he would give Kani £10 in cash and goods at a cheap rate, for the balance. I told Kani of this, and that I valued his horse at £30; although I am informed by good judges, £25 is quite value. Still, in purchasing from a Chief, I should rather, when left to myself, give him every advantage in making the bargain. In the morning Kani made a nice speech, before bidding good-bye; advising me how to act with the Turanga natives, and to take time in settling, or assenting to all their offers. I gave him some wine and beer for his journey, presented him with a new saddle, which I bought by a cheque on Bethune & Hunter, for £4, in return for his extreme kindness to Europeans, and as a token of the Queen's and Governor's regard for him, and not as a private gift from myself. He took the saddle, told me to take my own time in paying him for the horse; said that his gifts went for years all over the Islands, without being returned; and that he preferred my sending him £20 from Wellington, instead of being paid by Smith, as I offered; or receiving a mare, which, he remarked, might be lost or injured on the way; that he had plenty of horses, and did not require more. Rawiri made a good speech also; and is well-reported of, by Mr. Dunlop. I requested him to write to the Government, respecting any future differences arising between them and the Europeans. I also made him act nominally as Assessor in one or two cases, such as Brown's, for a pig sold to him by the natives; and especially for work done by natives for him last harvest, 12/-; which cases are settled; and the natives advised how to act in future. Examined the Heads of the Turanga, and find a good entrance for crafts of 20 and 40 tons, or even 100, - if one or two rocks in the entrance were blasted. They are a soft, clayey substance, shelving off in long sheaths, East and West, and good marl, or soft clay substance, with blue soil, and rich loam on the tertiary formation. The hill above the harbour commands a good view of the surrounding country, - rivers, plains, forests, cultivations, peach, groves, wheat fields, etc. Called at Smith's, Harvey's, and Mr. Harris'; where I had a large Meeting of natives. Met a Mr. Purvis there. In the afternoon dined with Mrs. Grace; and attended Church in the afternoon. Drank tea at the Mission Station; and came to tent, where I had a Korero with the natives till 11 p.m. Called on the Catholic Priest, and had a conversation with Te Wata, the Chief who attends his service, and who, with Kautia, is favourable to the sale of land. Messenger arrived at 8 p.m., with despatches from Wellington, stating that proceedings at Ahuriri were approved by Sir George Grey; and announcing the arrival of two surveyors. Spent the evening at Mr. Rich's. Accompanied by Mr. Harris, Rich, and I went out to see a flat of land extending in a Northerly direction from Turanga, at Wairengahika. A body of natives were assembled to discuss the sale of their land. Some objected, till Te Kani Otakirau and his cousin Rawiri were agreed. Others favoured the sale; and Kautia, a man of great influence, is endeavouring to unite the natives to favour a sale, and have a large body of Europeans. I have now a good idea of the general character of the country; which is certainly a fine, although rather limited, district. Mr. Smith gives the yearly export, by himself, from Turanga, at:- 5000 bush. wheat. 20 tons salt pork. 3000 bush maize. 2 tons bacon and hams. Mr. Harris:- 10 tons onions. Simson gives his return at:- 2102 bush wheat. 4,5 tons pork. 200 bush maize 8 tons potatoes. Halbert:- 2000 bush wheat 20 bush maize. 2 tons pork. 8 tons potatoes. Mr. Harris, European produce:- 1400 bush wheat 1 ton pork Mr. Espie:- 400 bush wheat 80 bush barley Mr. Harris:- 43 head horned cattle. 4 horses. Uren:- 19 horned cattle. Espie:- 20 horned cattle. 1 horse. Norcros:- 8 head King:- 33 head cattle. 2 horses. Arthur:- 50 head cattle. 2 horses. Archdeacon:- 20 head cattle. 8 horses. Cooper:- 3 head cattle. Simson:- 9 head cattle. 1 horse. Halbert:- 5 head cattle. Morris:- 2 horses. Goats:- 300 on the North side Waipaoa:- 28 horses including Makaraka to Turanganui. 25 horned cattle. :- (by Europeans.) Harris:- 27 acres. W.B. - Cooper:- 8 acres. Espie:- 24 acres. Norcross:- 10 acres. King:- 14 acres. Williams:- 6 acres. Mr. Harris:- 13 acres. Mr. Rich:- 1 acre. Simson:- 2 105 acres. Settled Espie and Paratene's horse case. Returned from Whero Whero; where Mr. Harris and I collected some of the foregoing statistics. Received information that gunpowder is being sold by a man named Halbert, in this Bay; which I must take steps to prevent, even if I delay here a day or so longer. Paratene agrees to return Espie's mare, taken by him. Issued a summons for T. Halbert to appear before me at 10 a.m. tomorrow, to answer the charge of Espie for having sold gunpowder to an aboriginal native, named Paraone te Wae; also swore in a man named Uren, to act as Special constable, giving him a search warrant for seizing any munitions of war he might find about the premises of T. Halbert. Had the mare taken from Espie, brought to me by the natives, after which I delivered her over to Espie, thus settling a case that has been pending for the last 4 years. Dined with Mr. Rich. Called on Mrs. Grace. Offered a reward of £5 to any native who would inform against the future sale of gunpowder, which will effectually put a stop to that system. Agreed to take young Ed. Harris with me for a few months, to see what he may be able to do. An uneasy night at Mr. Dunlop's. Noisy. This day will be long remembered at Turanga, as being the first on which a Magistrate's Court was held. The attendance of natives and Europeans was large. All the principal settlers were present; and throughout, the case excited, in all its stages, great interest. The natives gave their evidence with directness; and Thomas Halbert has been proved guilty of illegally selling to the natives, Paratene, and others, 15 cannisters of powder. Judgement in the case postponed till 10 a.m. tomorrow. The respectful silence and attention, paid by all parties, was very noticeable. Adjudicated in Halbert's case, that he should pay £20, and 14/6 costs; which sum he has paid into my hands. Native complaints referred to me, are adjusted. Spent the day at Mission Station, and Mr. Rich's. Writing to Auckland. Sent powder on board ''Benlomond''. Heavy rain. Went to Turanganui. Delivered bag containing £20.14.6 cash, and packet of despatches for Colonial Secretary; for which, and the 16 canisters of powder, D. Campbell, master of the ''Benlomond'' gave me receipt. Dined with Mr. Dunlop. Met a Mr. Gavin from Ayrshire; who was taking a trip for his health in the ''Benlomond''. Said to be a man of £5,000 property. Wrote McInnes, who has gone, as I learn, to Moreton Bay, to join his Uncle. Called at Yankee Smith's; to whom I gave an order for £18, on Bethune & Hunter, dated 24th. inst, for the saddle, and other goods, I had from him during my stay there; including 2 blankets, 2 shirts, etc. to Ruharuhi. I hear that the settlement in the powder case has had a magical effect on the natives; many of them paying up debts that were given for lost; and demanding what was due to them from the traders. There are many cases that might yet be settled; but I must not delay longer. Bid good-bye to the Turanga people. Pressed by Mr. Rich to sleep at his house; as he wished to accompany me tomorrow on my journey. The natives and picannies are gone on to Whero Whero. Heavy rain. Danced till 2 a.m. with Miss Small, and the young Richs. Mr. Rich rode on with me. The country about Whero Whero is a fine, rich soil, well adapted for agriculture, by draining one or two flats; and the hills are covered with excellent grazing for sheep, as far as a river, named Maraetaha. At Umukehu, my horse slipped, and fell down two or three times; owing partly to Mr. Rich's sanguineness in pushing forward. He seems an exceedingly agreeable man, but extravagant in his speculative ideas on sheep grazing, etc. He thinks of making a fortune at once. The land, and general features of the country, is poor, hilly and broken; dangerous travelling for a horse. Mine had two narrow escapes to-day; one, by getting his foot entangled by a branch we cut down. Fortunately a tomahawk was at hand; or the animal would have broken his foot. In fact, all the land about here is not worth 1/- an acre; or, I should say, 4d. We passed one Pah, of the Ngaiotahu-po. The Chief, Hererini, is a great warrior. Another branch are settled at Ahikakariki, Ihaka's place; who has charged foot passengers going on a line of road, cut by him, for several months. He now agrees to relinguish all further charge for people going on the road; and states that Mr. Colenso wrote to Mr. Williams about it; and that he told them that their chargimg was wrong. They received 8/-, charged to Smith, of the Acheson, for going on the road to Mr. Williams'. They agree to my proposals, respecting the road. They complain that Peter Simson has not paid them for some wheat; in consequence of their having sold him badly grown wheat. I am glad that the road affair is settled. Ihaka seems a sensible, reasonable man; who listens to sense. Heavy rain. Many cases at Turanga are not yet settled. The natives crowded round me with several cases as I was leaving. Had an exceedingly bad road, up hill and down dale, slippery passes, and a really bad road along the new line; which is badly supplied with water. One of our guides, however, managed to keep us supplied with a small quantity. At night we got to Te Mahanga, and heard that the natives of Te Mahia intended to resist my taking a trader, named Morris; who, they were under the foolish impression, I was going to leave, for selling powder to them. I had no complaint against the man. Met Hori and Wiremu, who came from Te Mahia to meet me. Ihaka, the Chief, of the new road, came on with me, expecting to hear a Korero at Te Mahia, and Nukutunia, about land selling. In the morning we got to Oraka. Ihaka Whanga, the principal Chief of Te Mahia's Pa, where I met Mr. Morris, who the natives were surprised to find talking to me; as they were under the impression quite different, as to his fate, supposing, no doubt, he was doomed to suffer some punishment. I rode his Arab horse, formerly B. Boyd's, on to Mr. Ellis and Perry's Station; where I was kindly entertained. Got a good deal of information about the Bay, the whaling, its prospects, etc. There are upwards of 140 Europeans, and about 280 natives; who live entirely by whaling. This year, however, they have had bad luck; and many of the Europeans are beginning to leave the Bay in consequence. Got two mats from Mr. Perry, £3 or £4 each; and one from Mr. Study £1. Met a Mr. Craig from Auckland there. Table Cape is estimated at 15 by 8 miles. Good land for pasture. The rest of the country appears hilly and barren. Paid 2/6 for repairs Haurangi's saddle. Examined a Deed of Gift to one of the whalers, for 10 acres of land at Turanga. Left Morris' Station at 7 a.m. Called at a Pah, where a German, named Strong, has a small cottage. The Mahia Chief is rather a decent, well dressed man. Ihaka Tanuhana and Te Matenga, who met me near Nuhaka, joined me, when we all rode to Nuhaka; where the natives offered to sell a large tract of country, the coast line extending from Nuhaka to Waikakapu; thence towards Turanga inland. Rode on through heavy sand to Te Wiremu Rapa's place; where we met Te Apatu, the Wairoa Chief; and were well entertained with a large supply of food, including eels from the lagoon, which is of considerable size, and almost the only one where eels are numerous in this neighbourhood. I met poor Angus Cameron, who is crazy, at this place, on his way among the natives, to Auckland; where he expects redress for some alleged grievance he imagines he suffers from the Company. There is little doubt but that he is crazy. Some few hills for sheep grazing, in the lagoons on the road to Te Wairoa; where we reached at dusk; the carriers arriving at 12 in heavy rain. Slept at the trader's Station, on the right bank of the river. Attended forenoon native service; and spent the day at Mr. Hamlin's. Waiting the arrival of the inland Chief, Te Koari Parae, and Te Ropiha. Enquired into a case of debt, Lewis versus Pita Rona. No evidence to prove the debt. Case postponed till Mr. Perry should be present, when Te Mahia should be fixed as the place for conducting the enquiry. Natives of Tiakiwai's tribe oppose the sale of their claims, in opposition to Te Koari; and requested me to be present to hear their sentiments; which I declined, telling them that I did not cause them to assemble; neither did I ask them for their land. Therefore, as I only wished them and Te Koari to meet, I should not have anything to say to them. My object being that they should agree among themselves, and afterwards that I should speak to them. I am sorry to be delayed here; but it is such an undertaking to come back. It is as well for me to settle things, as to go on. It will save time in the long run; and enable me to conduct matters here with greater ease hereafter. Haurangi, Hapuku's brother, is acting well, and favours the purchase of land in every place we go to. Koani's party arrived in the evening. Strong party quarrels annoy him; and the lower river parties moderating towards night. Wrote to Mr. Rich and Preece. Spoke to Te Koari, Ropiha, and Parae, about the purchase of land at Te Wairoa, telling them I would note the boundaries, let them consider the subject well among themselves, then that they might write to me on the subject; but that it would be some time before a purchase could be concluded, from having other duties to attend to. I gave the natives here a sharp rebuke for their thefts inhospitable conduct, and wild disposition. On leaving, an old priest, named Poro, or Rapa, with a staff in his hand, was pacing up and down the river bank, repeating a farewell song as I was leaving. I sent the poor old man a shirt, 3/-, paid Wiremu 2/6, a tea tin 3/-. Got 3 loaves sent after me by Mr. Hamlin, with whom I bid good-bye rather suddenly, being anxious to get off. Called at Kopu's place, who seems a well disposed young Chief. Called at Waihua; where we crossed the horses, and came over a tolerable road. Country rather hilly to Mohaka, where we reached at 9 p.m. Mr. Perry states that table Cape is about 15 miles long by 6 broad, the land is generally good say = of it available with a good deal of grass, at this Bay there are 12 whaling stations 26 boats, owned by Messrs.Ellis Perry Morris Dyke Carrol Morrel Bartlet, and Lewis - Native population about 50. During the winter 44 = ton black oil, and in summer 33 tons sperm and scamperdown oil. Wheat 500 bush exported Pork 2 tons Mr.Perry states that some rules should be introduced to protect the whaling interests of the Molina Bay - that regulations should be made with regard to the number of boats to be employed where there is so much opposition as exists at this Bay almost between every party there is something required to put a stop to each one having from the inland board the first crack at the whales by this means driving them from the Bay instead of taking them outside by which means they would come in to the Bay and secure to the whaling interests instead of 30 tons in every probability 200 tons a year. The whaling ships from Hobart town America and other places prevent the whales from coming in to the Bay and injure materially the shore parties - few exports from this place, consumption of produce by the whaling parties is considerable. Europeans deserting the Bay for want of luck during the season in whaling. A few say 3 sheep or cattle Stations might be formed on the table Cape Peninsula, Portland Island 1= mile by = mile is an excellent station for one person, evidently the neck of land at no distant period was surrounded by sea and the isthmus across is about ¾ to a mile wide - fine karaka rimu pukutea matae birch manukau and kohai rata and other varietis - Pohuti Kawa - flax - Feby. 1857. Potatoes £2 a ton Wheat - 3 per bush - Goods 120 per cent Cheaper than Poverty Bay. Feby.27, 1857. A native named Pita Roua states that Messrs.Perry and Lewis owe him and others £30 for a share due to the boat they pulled. Lewis head man and Frederick steersman 8 whales were killed by their boat, the Europeans received £50 each for their share and we only received 10 each. In the morning came on to Paora and Potutu's Pah where we breakfasted. Potutu insisted on my spending the day there, that he might assemble the natives, to sell his land. It being desirable to have the Mohaka, I agreed to remain; when, in the evening, the natives present fully agreed to sell their claims to the other side of Mohaka, on to Waitaha, retaining the North side, on to Waituna, at my suggestion, for themselves; which will be a good river boundary. The natives make this a Sunday. But they have too many Sundays; and we ought not to introduce any beyond the 7th. day; which should be well observed. But week Sundays are spent in sleeping, feasting, talking scandal, and injuring their morals; more than if they went to their regular work. I agreed to purchase the Mohaka. Paid for ham 5/6. Agreed to employ an old whaler surveying for one month. In the morning the natives of Waikare arrived, and offered to sell, from Waitaha to Moiengiengi. They made several speeches on the subject; after which we left for Waikare, over a road where we had to haul the horses up in one place, with a tackle. The land is hilly, covered with fern, but on the whole, fertile; and with sowing clover seed, will eventually make good sheep runs. It rained and poured dreadfully, as we got to Waikare; where we reached at 6 p.m. In the morning saw the reserve asked by the natives at Waikare; which is small, about 10 acres on the North, or left bank of the river. Poihipi pointed it out to me. We travelled on to Moiengiengi; where the boundary of the Waikare Block was shown to me; and a hole dug in the ground by the natives and myself. We next called to see Toha, a young man, the Chief of the place; who agreed to the sale, and wished the boundary to be extended to a stream named Waipapa. We ascended a high ridge above Moiengiengi; which regularly tired me out. We got on through the rain to Aralaoa-nui, about 9 at night. After some talk with a few of the Arapaoanui natives, we started on a tolerable road, but very barren country, to Tangoio; where we dined. There is a nice flat of maize round the village. Got to Waihuiganga in the afternoon; where Mr. Colenso had a large hui. One or two old Chiefs were baptised. I found Mr. Pelic here, and some of the Survey men. Rode on to Ahuriri; where there was a packet of letters waiting for me from England, Taranaki and Wellington. Heard on Monday from my brother Andy, who has lost £800 by his late ship-wreck. Spent the day quietly at Mr. Ankatell's. Park came over from Alexander's. I went up with Pelichet to a native meeting at Waihinganga; when the boundary of Moiengiengi was altered to Waikare. ''Rose'' arrived from Wellington. Several letters. The tribes collecting, to barter; and speak to me about the land, and surveying; which, from marriages, and other causes, they are not ready to undertake till Monday next. Sent £3 by Mr. Storm to Mr. Perry of Table Cape, for mats; and £1 to Mr. Ellis, storekeeper; also a letter to Mr. Harris, informing him that his son joined Mr. Park, principal surveyor, at 2/- per day. Engaged a discharged soldier for one month, from this date. Mr. Reed leaves, by way of Wairarapa, for Wellington; and returns again to Ahuriri for sketches he left behind. Went to spend the forenoon at Mr. Colenso's, and stopped there all day. Found him and Mr. Colenso as usual very kind and communicative on native matters. Vittiers applied for licence. Returned from Mr. Colenso's; having urged the natives there to hasten to the survey. They promise to go on Monday, whether their great wedding comes off or not. Told them the contents of Heu Heu's letters, in reference to the sale of land. Purchased a tent, £7.5/- from Mr. Colenso; also a horse, Kerr's, £6; and a bridle. Writing, and employed Pelichet in copying. Mr. Park surveying. Advised Reed not to present his sketches with the absurd names he placed on them, before the Government; as I should prefer, if Sir George Grey calls here, to present them myself. Engaged with Te Hapuku, and Mr. Park, and writing to the Governor-in-Chief. Engaged copying, and writing. The ''Rose'' sailed to Wellington. Pelichet despatched to Te Hapuku's Station, with his men. Land Claims at Turanga, Poverty Bay, notified in Government Gazette, Vol. 4 Auckland, 27th. January 1844, No. 4. 1200 acres alleged to have been purchased on 17th. Oct. 1837, from Perahuka, in the name and on behalf of his tribe; consideration £341.9/- stg. 1 acre at Whero Whero, known as Morgan's Island. Purchased 10th. January 1840; Payment £33 stg. 4 acres, on the banks of the Arai, 10 miles from the mouth of the river, (King's place). Alleged to have been purchased 14th. Dec. 1837. £15 stg. 1000 acres, 4 miles from the land last described, measuring, on West side, about 1600 yards North 3400 yards East, 2000 yards South 2500 yards. Purchased 18th. Dec. 1837. £300. 2 acres, more or less, near Turanga heads. Purchased 30th. June 1831. 3 acres at Turanganui. 5th. May 1838. A piece of land 10 miles from Turanganui, at ''Waipaoa'', about 60 acres. Purchased 10th. Dec. 1839. 5000 acres, Richard Palmer, M. Donald. River West side Turanga, Poverty Bay Farihuka, Wakakihi, Attookai, in 1852, £52 stg. 18 miles from Turanganui river, called Monkaraka. 2nd. January 1840. The above are all the old claims gazetted on dates above notified. Capt. Rhodes claims 600 acres, and 1,5 acres at Waretuna. A small bush. Not the land purchased by him from Espie and Hayes. Consideration 195 - tobacco. Harris, in trust for Henry Harris. Gift 150 acres from Paratene, and Tamati Tokerangi. Same natives to James King. 150 acres land, repurchased by Mr. Harris for Ed. W. Harris. Consideration, 1 mare. Gift from natives, 50 acres of land to Edward and Henry Harris. Hekitiro Te Rangi and sons. 40 acres to extend his farm. Consideration, 1 mare. From Kahutia Komiro and others. Kahutia, 150 acres at Makaraka. Kahutia and others, 100 acres Makaraka. From Moiki Pokipoki, and Hori Miti, to Telvey, 60 acres; now possessed Wren and Ryan. Consideration £12. 200 acres, Wren. Kahutia and others. Makaraka. Gift to his son. 5 acres Aratapa, Kiriahi and Waitai. At Ruapahatu. 60 acres. Consideration, 2 fillies. Karaka and others. favour, of his children, for 1000 acres, or 60. in favour of a whaler at Te Mahia, named Barlett, for his children. from Moiengiengi to Table Cape, and inland to Waikaremoana:- 1345 Males. 1110 Females 2455 Three fourths of these are baptised. Mr. Hamlin states that in some places the natives increase; and decrease in others. Land offered for sale by Te Matenga Tamihana, Matiu and Hopa Paora, Wiremu Paora, Te Hakari Henari. Boundaries:- Tamahine, Te Atutaroa, Orakawaitutu, Te Wairoa, Waiwakaane, Te Whare-o- tu Manuhiri, Te Arowa, Te Kapiti-o-Maku te rua, Ngarehu, Tau Kakaharoa, Te Huru Kino, Kaiupowhau, Opito, Tutaematuatua, Momoku, Nuhaka, Tunanui Otapaua, Otuaira, Parakore, Waimaunu, Wataroa, Okiwa, Waitawha, Taunitia, Takararoa, WaiKakopu, Wairoa. External boundaries of Block to be surveyed, partly by actual measurement, and partly by sketches with the prismatic; all provisional points and hills to be fixed on the boundaries, and the names marked. Survays of Reserves to be actually measured. Tuki Tuki from Patongata, to be surveyed by measurement, to beach and Kidnappers, and Island, fixed by measurement. Ruataniwha plains, 60 miles long, by an average breadth of 13 miles, contains 499,200 acres of the finest grazing and pasturage land in the world, with wood and water on the Ruahine and Manawatu ends of the Rangos. Spent the day at Ahuriri, with Mr. Park. Started at 3 p.m. on our survey expedition; Pelichet having gone on with his party on Saturday, Mr. Park and I came to the Awatoto; where I have held a long korero with Tareha, about the purchase of the Ahuriri Island; and the price paid for land at Taranaki; of which he had a great idea; which I moderated by telling him the exact truth, which always stands the test. Told Paora Kerepu that Mohaka should be surveyed after Mr. Park returned. Went with Mr. Park and his party to Omarunui; where I bid good-bye with them as they were to start on their journey. I came on to Hapuku's. Saw the Queen, Hinepaketia, who is ill. She has great influence, and a well-behaved person. I told her to send a native for food, to Ahuriri; and intend of giving her a present. Besides, Hapuku and she both agree to let me have their full co-operation, in selling the Wairarapa. It is a difficult thing to unite a party of natives, to agree to any subject, in which their jealousies of each other are concerned. Te Moananui is exceedingly jealous of Te Hapuku, and would rather not see the Patuki Kura plain sold. I told him to aid Te Hapuku; which he promises to do, evidently expecting a part of the credit for doing so, and concluding the sale - if it is concluded. We got to the Wakatatara about 5 p.m.; where a strong discussion took place, between Te Hapuku and Huhapata, the Chief of the village, who opposes the sale of Patangata, or rather of Pakihikura. Te Hapuku is determined to sell, and states that they are indebted to the Europeans for all the comforts they possess; that, although he has 10 wives, they cannot furnish him with any clothing; that all he wears is European. Therefore he wishes himself and his tribe to be European also. Te Moana recommended them all not to speak violently in my presence, but to confer among themselves, and settle the matter without delay; as I was anxious to be off. Severe headache; the natives talking all night does not improve it. In the morning we rode on with our party, for the Meeting, to Patangata; where we received a hearty welcome from all the natives, and where I have had quiet opportunities of advising Te Moananui to act with Te Hapuku in this sale; which he has done admirably; and I find that Mr. Colenso has been advising him well on the subject; and in fact I have every reason to think highly of Mr. Colenso as a zealous, conscientious man, and an excellent, devoted Missionary, well entitled to support from the Government. The Meeting at Patangata today was most satisfactory. A large Block of at least 200,000 acres has been obtained, including the former Block at Te Waipukurau. Ani, Te Hapuku's sister, and principal Chief, made a most impressive speech; bade farewell to the land, and turned her children over to my protection; and should not I, as the Agent acquiring this land, with the Almighty's aid, do all that lies in my power, for her children. To-night I have given her son, Hoera, a boy of 8 years old, one of my own blankets; and must give him a good fit-out, and see that he is not left destitute hereafter. If I fail in doing so, I shall be robbing an orphan of his natural rights. How many instances I met, in which there are demands on my private resourses! Poor Ani! I felt for her, as she spoke so feelingly about her child becoming a slave to Europeans; and confiding him to my care! The speeches were almost all favourable to-day. Wrote a letter to Mr. Colenso, informing him that at the Patangata Meeting, the natives add considerably to the Waipukurau purchase; that I saw the Wakatara and Patangata places he talked of purchasing for a Mission Station. The first is a romantic spot, if sufficiently extensive for the purposes we talked of, - that is, for the subdividing of a native village around it; in the carrying out of which I shall be really glad, not only to recommend its adoption, to the Governer-in-Chief, but also to give all the personal aid in my power; from a thorough conviction that it would be productive of much good in furthering Missionary operations; and in leaving evidence to posterity of the fruits of Missionary zeal, in civilizing the natives. I have frequently thought of the subject, since Mr. Colenso first mentioned it; and I shall continue, during my rambles, to note down such spots as will be best suited for such a purpose; and if we both succeed in fixing on a place, and obtaining the same, I hope the other project will not influence him to leave our adopted Island, in which he has laboured so many years. I would have called on Monday, but feared he was preparing for his journey. Part of Te Waipukurau he spoke of, offered for sale. The Kohinurakau opposition tribe, arrived, and spoke in favour of selling their claims; and even more than the others offered. Held several conversations with Te Moananui and Te Hapuku, advising them to forget former jealousies, and unite in the land sale, in which they seem thoroughly interested, and well-disposed. Mr. Alexander arrived from Castle Point. No news of Thomas, or Capt. Smith. Wrote an order for tobacco, and 4 lbs of tea, for the survey party at the A. Block. Also wrote to Mr. Ankatell, and Villiers. Gave Mr. Villiers notice to remove his sheep. Wrote to Mr. Park; also to Ropata Waiariki, of Manawatu. Ascended the Kauhehe hill; which commands an extensive view of the whole surroundings. The country is really beautiful, and extremely rich and fertile; with numerous lagoons, rivers, and forests of timber; besides hilly country for sheep and cattle, well covered with natural grass. Had a long talk with Te Hapuku, and others, about the point for striking off the external boundary; also respecting the Reserves. Attended forenoon service with the natives; and spent the day quietly. Te Hapuku is making a favourable speech to his tribe, before starting on the boundary line. My party are all ready; but their ''Kai'' is not yet out of the oven. We have beautiful weather, and hope to have God-speed with us, in carrying on the duties of this week. How seldom do we implore his aid in vain! We encamped at 4 p.m. at Maungarahirahi, while the natives went out pig-killing. Journey from the boundary at the Hawea stream, 3= miles. A quiet day with Te Hapuku in the tent. At 7 a.m. we started up the Maungarahirahi hill, and continued our journey; Mr. Pelichet taking his observations till half past 11 a.m.; when we halted, to dine, in a little flat under the range, which forms the boundary. At our last halting-place, Te Hapuku made a long speech in favour of selling the Wairarapa; which is firmly opposed by the natives there; and also by a man, named Wilson, and several other Europeans; although I believe the most respectable and sensible of the people are in favour of the place being purchased by the Government. We encamped at Te Pa-o-hine Mahanga; where Te Hapuku wishes for a reserve of about 100 acres; of which land, containing some fine forest trees of totara and kaikatea; it being one of the favourite bird-snaring; spots; and as there is an abundance of good forest running hence through the Block to Patangata, I consider Hapuku's demand rather moderate; and his whole conduct more favourable than would be anticipated. During the night we have had several grand speeches by the fire-light. Te Hapuku spoke with his usual force, after I had set the example; and speeches in favour of selling, settling other opposition; never interfering hereafter with European land; and treating the English well, were kept up till 12 at night; much to the enjoyment of our party, who have a great thirst for listening to speeches, and criticizing them afterwards. In the morning Ani, the great Chieftainess, and claimant of the country around, spoke firmly about her rights and possessions; and repeated her former determination to sell her land to the Europeans; as they were now waste. The birds, and usual food, that made the land valuable, have disappeared; ''and let us have Europeans to enrich our country, and bring goods for all, old and young.'' As we came along, I met Maika, one of Mr. Colenso's teachers; who brought me a letter from the former gentleman, the contents of which annoyed and surprised me. They were to the effect that he had heard numerous reports among the natives, a tittle of which he would not now relate; by which it appeared that I had departed from my original intentions, of only purchasing from the natives, what lands they did not require; and of having told Hupata, in defending his rights, that his word, as a single man against the majority, was good for nothing. Both these assertions, and all the others that Mr. Colenso has heard, are quite as unfounded as the great majority of native reports usually are; and however highly I have thought of Mr. Colenso, he ought to have patiently made sure of the truth of the reports before he blamed me for acts, of which I would not be in any way guilty. But when a person indulges in any particular theory, and opposes any particular acts, it is impossible to satisfy, or divest them of unfounded jealousies; unless they are very patient, discerning men. Justice, and fairplay to the Sovereign I serve, and all her subjects of every race, shall be my motto, as it always has been; let others say what they will. The people of Manawarakau are in opposition so much to Te Kapuku, from jealousy of his Chieftainship, and friendship to the Government, since my residence here, that it may be difficult to reconcile them. They all welcomed me in a friendly manner; and Mr. Colenso has favoured my mission among them more than I expected. At least he does not speak against me, in the manner of his letter; which I shall have the satisfaction of explaining to his face, as unfounded, would indicate. We lighted fires, and several speeches were made, during the night, for and against. Te Hapuku is now a staunch friend of the Government; and they have a good, and powerful ally. In the morning, the people of Manararakau agreed to let a small piece of land, they objected at first to sell, into the boundary; I having assured them that Te Hapuku had made an excellent reserve for them at Ohine Mahanga, a fine totara and pine forest; where there are some fine eel cuts also reserved near a nice bush. Slept at Mr. Tiffen's Station; where I ordered plenty of tobacco for the natives. How comfortable a thatched cottage looks in the wild, desolate wilderness of New Zealand! The cattle here look in splendid fat condition. We came on 10 miles to-day. Good grazing. We started to Tunigra, where we had a deal of ''Wakawa'', and quarrelling, about false reports circulated between Te Morena and Te Hapuku; also some speeches, threatening to hold some portions of land within the boundary, sold by the Chiefs. The opposition, however, was ended, from a speech I addressed to them, urging the propriety of reconciling their differences, and uniting in a friendly way, to settle the land question; that all their Reserves would be secure to them; that they should not raise up fresh fears, or engender feelings among their children, that would eventually kindle foolish strife between their children and the European children; that the Europeans, as they were aware, were a numerous race. To oppose strife to them would be folly; but to act mildly and quietly would be the surest means of obtaining their wishes, and of securing their rights, without infringement of any kind; that our laws were all powerful to protect them in their just rights. Paraone spoke very wildly to Te Hapuku, at first; but afterwards he came to me, and spoke very mildly, telling me that he only wished to give vent to his worse feelings; that he was only speaking to his relatives; and was only vexed that they did not sell all their land towards Ruahine, where no people lived, and which was useless; that he would have more readily agreed, than by selling the land around the places they were occupying. Morena seems vexed that Te Hapuku should discover his falsehoods, and opposition to the sale of land merely from ill-will and jealousy of Te Hapuku. Passed one or two nice spots, at Onepoto, and Pohatupapa; where we slept; and where Puhara came up to us. Wrote to Thomas, and Mr. Ankatell. In the morning we left for Parimahu; where we got to at half past 8. Here the Southern boundary is to be fixed. In proceeding to Porangahau, we met two men, whom the natives suspected of being deserters. They had not, however, the appearance or manners of a soldier; being loose and careless in their habit, destitute of clothing, and professing to be looking for employment. Got to Porangahau; and had a long conversation with Mr. Colenso, respecting his letter; and satisfied him that what he heard, respecting it, was incorrect. A long talk about a Reserve, to preserve the natives from entire destruction, which Mr. Colenso considered would be their fate, if some steps of the kind were not taken. His plan seems to be that one large Reserve, out of all the districts that may be purchased, should be made; so that the natives could always resort to it, and call it a permanent home. He still seems anxious to have a Mission Station; where he would be entirely isolated from the whites; and speaks of the district between Manawarakau and Waimarama, bounded by a range of hills that runs parallel with Te Tuki Tuki. The land, he tells me, is poor and hilly; not calculated for European purposes. There are 100 natives already residing in it. More could be induced to go there; and by getting a square mile of the land included in the present boundary, added to the said Block, he considers he might fix on that as a permanent home for himself and the natives. Moreover, he is quite of opinion that such an arrangement would add greatly to their religious and moral welfare, as a race. He certainly deserves the utmost consideration being given to his plans; as he has really worked a wonderful change on the natives of this place; and the whole bent of his inclinati on seems to be towards improving and promoting their Christian welfare. All I am desirous to obtain, is, his views in writing on these subjects; that I may submit them to Sir George Grey. I am afraid I have interfered with Mr. Colenso's religious duties, by coming here on Saturday; but I was afraid I should lose sight of him altogether, if I did not do so. The natives seemed to expect that Mr. Colenso and I would have quarrelled about a letter of his he wrote to the Chiefs; when he was under false, and rather excited impressions, respecting the proceedings of the Chiefs and myself. To their surprise, however, they find us very friendly. A beautiful day. We have really been most fortunate, in experiencing fine weather since we started. Attended morning and evening prayers at the Native Chapel, and dined with Mr. Colenso; remaining talking on various subjects. He is better informed on matters connected with the natives than most Missionaries I have met. Women's monthly sickness not known by New Zealanders till lately. Chasticy, when living with Europeans, of their women, beyond doubt. Mr. Colenso considers that land originally given as a gift from one Chief to another, does not empower the recipient to sell, but to hold for himself and successors; that no land should be purchased beyond Titiokura, as it would rouse the interior tribes against the Europeans, if such were done. Hapuku's ideas about Wairarapa; rights there; Early Church history; Telfords History; miserly conduct. Attended morning service at Chapel; and had a long conversation with Mr. Colenso, on land questions. Mr. Colenso seems most anxious, and agrees to finally fix on a Station for himself at Manawarakau; if the terms he proposes are acceeded to:- 1st. To have the land from Manawarakau to Waihopokia North, and thence South, as far as the stony beach extends towards Okura 2nd. That a large Reserve should be purchased there for the natives; and afterwards granted, or sold to them, at a low rate, as their wants might suggest. Mr. Colenso is a most zealous Missionary; but I fancy he has no fixed plan for the benefit of the natives; at least he declines placing his views on paper, to be submitted to the Government; and in my opinion that no plan will surpass that of selling land to the natives, wherever they may desire to settle, at such as will enable them to purchase, without distressing themselves. Tuesday. In the morning, Te Hapuku, Te Ropiha, Paora, and Hori Mania, and others, accompanied Pelichet and myself, to fix the boundary at Paremahu; thence in a direct line to Kouri hill; thence to Te Tuhi, and on to Ngawha, and on to Paraeroa stream. At 4 p.m. we got to Paraeroa, having walked steadily since 1 o'clock, at the rate of 2= miles per hour; - or, from Mr. Pelichet's remarks - about 5¼ miles in a straight line. The natives have come on, owing to the rain, more quickly than they would have done, had it been a fine, sunny day. The land we passed is rich in quality, with tolerable grass among the fern. The boundary, however, is not so well marked as I should wish; although it is not likely to be disputed; as we have dug holes on the ranges, as we came along. How very pleasant to have got such a good start over a rough road, with such a large party. Our encampment is in a small wood, watered by the Paraeroa river, over which I felled a tree for a bridge; which did not cross. I afterwards found a bridge higher up, formed by an old totara tree; over which I ordered my prty to come, and form our encampment on the North side of the stream; to be ready for an early move in the morning. The sound and reverberation of 100 voices, harmonising with the rushing of the stream, after heavy rain; combined with the dreadful sound of the youngsters' voices, as they climbed and scampered about; and the quickly repeated blows of the hatchets through the wood, - form a pleasing contrast to the stillness which Nature permits this place to enjoy. The natives are all in good spirits, and seem determined to hasten the tedious work, on which we are engaged. At 20 minutes to 9 we commenced our journey over fern hills, interspersed with grass. ''Paraima'', Apiata's kainga, in sight. To our left, as we came along, there is a small bush, on each side of the river Paraeroa; which would be useful for Stations; but as the natives are jealous about their land, and as the place is not now required, I will not ask for it till some future date, or if the place goes on. The heat of the day prevents much progress. At half past 12 we halted to rest, and lunch; and afterwards continued our journey over a rough country, not so well known by the natives, or so much valued, as would suppose. The birds of the forest, the native rat, the kiwi, and all the game that rendered this land of value to the natives, have disappeared; and as Te Hapuku to-day remarked, - ''Why are you so stingy about these hills? Their richness is gone; and let us now enrich them, or ''Wakamamona'' these valueless spots with pakehas.'' Certainly it is the wisest course they could pursue; and it seems a pity that persons of our own race should endeavour to throw cold water on their desire to amalgamate and live on friendly terms with the English colonists. We ascended a round hill, 500 feet, Tutai-o-te-Whanaupani; where we dug a square hole, and planted two ti-trees; Te Hapuku assisting in doing so. Encamped at night on a branch of the Maungarahi. The mornings are now very cold, - that is at break of day. At 7 a.m. we got under way. The country is poor, and broken. Too ferny for sheep; although there is a good deal of grass growing among the fern, which would keep horned cattle well. We ascended Tiriwha hill, or Te Arero-o-te-Atiwa; where we had a good view of Ruataniwha, and Te Waipukurau. The latter name has been given to this hill by Te Haena, one of the Ngatiawa in my train; who wishes to perperuate the cognomen of his tribe on this spot. Unfortunately we met with and killed a fine hog; which delayed us at Waipawa for the rest of the day. In the evening Apiata and his party came with supplies of flour, melons and dried fish for us; bringing letters, - one from Rev. W. Colenso, asking for a Stat on at Waimarama. Several good speeches during the night. my candle extinguished in the tent is the sign for all to go to rest, and sleep. Paratene spoke of the land transferred to the Europeans, being, with all its woods and hills, sacred for ever, and theirs equally so. In the morning we started through the plain to a conspicuous gap in the Range, named Tureirei; where Pelichet took some observations; thence - after I had a pig hunt - we proceeded to Maharakeki; the stream which forms our boundary, and on which I breakfasted the first day I entered the Heretaunga district; which improves, the longer I become acquainted with it. We descended at Te Rangitahia Pah, which is an excellent boundary, on the Maharakeki. Thence we proceeded a few miles down the river; where we encamped for the night. I administered some tea and medecine to Te Hapuku, who is unwell. Te Hapuku received a letter, of which there are many coming into the district, informing him that a great number of Chiefs have united together to hold their lands at Manawatu and Wairarapa, and strongly advising him to do the same. He is, however, too near to me to be influenced by such letters; and he appears to treat them with some degree of indifference, especially in my presence. The anniversary of my appointment, as Protector of Aboriginies, in 1844; of Inspector of Police in 1846; and of Land Commissioner in 1850. To a reflecting mind, these anniversaries should be accompanied with a due acknowledgement of the Almighty's providence, in blessing my efforts to perform my duties; and I should also thank the Almighty for bestowing such blessings upon me. Let us humbly seek his countenance and aid in my undertakings, if I am spared for the ensuing year; and let my mind be strongly imbued with feelings of justice to my fellow-creatures of both races. May the same God, Who upholds me, also uphold the natives; and cause my efforts to acquire their country, to prove an eventual, and present, benefit to their race, and all their posterity. They are certainly a most manly, interesting people; whose extinct on, or oppression, I should vastly regret; and whose improvement I shall always regard with equal interest as my own, - although I cannot carry out all the plans for their welfare, that I can forsee would be of great advantage to them. to ripen and fill up the wheat; which will soon be ready for reaping. In the afternoon two whale boats from Mr. Lewis' Station, at the Kidnapper Point, called in on their way to the Wairoa. Some showers of rain. Close, sultry weather. Reading ''Miscellaneous Pieces'' in the forenoon; and in the afternoon Mr. Ankatell gave me a relation of his adventures at the Chatham Islands. The base conduct of McLutchie and Hanson, in the oil purchased by Mr. Ankatell, or rather the American wreck purchased by him, at the Chathams, which must have been a lawless spot in past years; where several warriors escaped; saved Mr. Ankatell's life; who is a most respectably connected young man, very kind and hospitable, from the North of Ireland. The exhibition of human vice, related by him, in connection with the taking of the ''Hannah'' schooner, by Ellis, afterwards seized at Auckland, or the Mercury Islands; and the various subsequent events of his life, would form an interesting narrative. Fine morning. Whale boats off to Te Wairoa. Air purified by late thunder storm and rain. A Happy New Year to all my absent friends. May it really prove so to all of them, wherever they are, is my sincere wish... Got up early in the morning. Wrote to my sisters, - Flora, Ann, Kate, and Isabella... Takamoana came to see me, with some Rotorua natives, by whom I wrote to the Chief at Wakatane, Apanui; from whom, some years ago, I got two guns to be repaired; which, it is possible, have never been returned to him. Enclosed him £2, by Mauahi of Rotorua, who received a shirt and some tobacco for carrying the letters. I feel annoyed with myself that I did not settle the matter before now. Spoke to Takamoana about purchasing the Heads of Ahuriri, and the Island opposite, which is essentially necessary, to command the Harbour. He seems disposed to sell; but Tareha and Torotoro are the principal owners. May this year be attended with the Almighty's blessing on my efforts for the good of the country in which I live, and for the welfare of those who may hereafter resort to it. Confined to house all day with my cut foot, which is slow in recovering. Wrote to Rev. R. Kirkton, account of overland journey. Reading Major Mitchell's Travels. Natives went out to fish. No success. Consequently the natives have all abandoned their fishing villages about here, during the present change of moon. In the forenoon Dr. Reed and Mr. Alexander returned from their exploring expedition; and gave a tolerably favourable account of the country for sheep runs; being also, in some places, well-suited for agriculture; but rather hilly. No wood, but well watered. The exports from this place must be considerable from April to December. In 1850 the Imports amounted to £1523. 8. 11 at Ahuriri; and at Wakaari, taking Kidnapper Point, £300 or £1800. Population of natives may be estimated at 1100. Turanga is reported to me as being a fine, rich country, with 4000 acres of deep, rich, alluvial soil; and a native population of 800 souls, or probably more. Wawa te Kani, Otakirau's place, only 300. Te Wairoa, 1200 or upwards. A correct census and description of that part of the country, would be most desirable information, with a correct Export and Import return. One One, an old Chief, father to Tareha, and large landed proprietor, has just received a blanket and shirt as a present. Small gifts to these old men are well expended. In the morning Te Wiremu, the Chief of Wakaomo, near Castle Point, came to see me, requesting that I should not disturb his pakeha at Castle Point, (Mr. Guthrie.) I did not make him any promise; but Te Morena, who accompanied him, advised him, if he wished to secure his pakeha, that he had better sell his land; which will probably be the result of acting firmly in carrying out the Native Land Purchase Ord. He said his country was poor and hilly, not so rich as this and Wairoa; probably wishing, from his description, that it should be overlooked by me, in my progress along the country. Te Moana came to see me, hearing that I was laid up with my foot. He seemed very anxious about my intention of going to Turanga; which I told him could not now be accomplished for some time; therefore that he need not be so alarmed about my leaving. He fears, if I leave, that his land will be rejected, and others offered at Turanga, considered earlier than his. Reading Major Mitchell's ''Travels'', which are most interesting, especially his remarks about the Darling river tribes. A fine quantity of Hapuku, and other fish, was brought ashore to-day, by Mr. Ankatell's man, and some of my natives. I hear, from Ngapapa, Chief of my party, that Wiremu Te Potangaroa is a great Chief, possessing all the land from Porangahau to Castle Point; a great portion of which, although he conceals his motives from me, he intends to dispose of; which would give the Government a fine line of coast. Further supplies from Mr. Colenso, of apple pie, milk, gooseberries, etc. The weather is well-suited, from the heat and moisture of the atmosphere, Renata and Te Watere, the former a man who has given Mr. Colenso great trouble, has just called to enquire about the purchase of Patea and Manawatu. I told him that these questions could be publicly discussed and considered here after. My present attention was diverted to this district alone, as being the first offered for sale, the others should be considered in due course of time. Wrote to Te Heu Heu of Taupo, telling him, in case of opposition from him in future, that I was here purchasing land from Hapuku and Tareha and Te Moana-nui. Te Hapuku and Paora, the Chief of Mohaka, arrived in a whale boat from the Mohaka. Paora seems anxious that I should visit his place, and has had a long conversation with me, respecting his land, and his people residing on the river, whom he estimates at 100 men. He seems a quiet, sensible young man, well-disposed to the English. Distinct flashes of lightning at intervals of a second, are vividly showing through the clouds. The weather is close, with a strong breeze from the South. It is satisfactory to find the Chiefs coming in from such distances, to see, and consult with me, about their land; and their confidence in me should prompt me at all times to watch over their interests, as if they were mine own. In the morning I pulled in a canoe to Tareha's Station, along a fine deep river; thence across to the river that goes to the Awapuni Station; where I spent the day, with Mr. Colenso; who is such a straightforward, excellent man, that I have a great respect for him. The rivers in this neighbourhood abound with wild duck. The soil is a rich deposit, with raupo on the banks. The surf here has a very heavy, droneing, sonorous sound; as if its rage would overflow the land, as it, sometimes combined with the inland floods, does, to a great extent; rendering Mr. Colenso's station anything but secure. Mr. Colenso and the servants took refuge on the tables on one occasion; and ever since, a whale boat is kept to remove them, in case of a future overflow. The sea, within its bounds, must go; Heaven's Ruler wills it to be so. Spent a most pleasant day with Mr. Colenso; who has given me many interesting accounts of his experiences among the natives, and of his various narrow escapes, and determined proceedings with them, conquering their obstinacy, and violent passions; the treatment he received at the hands of the Ahuriri natives, through the malicious conduct of Renata, and the Chiefs Tareha, Moananui, and Takamoana, is dreadful; and shows how cautious I must be in dealing with these people, and how bitter they are, and how far they will carry their malignant passions, when once excited. His life has actually been in imminent danger, by them; and so has the life of his faithful Taupo native, Renata. Hapuku has behaved well in the matter, and so has Puhara. The details of the case are of very great interest, as exhibiting the contradictory, changeable, and evil disposition of the natives. Wereta's affair at Wairarapa, in consequence of Mr. Colenso's just argument with him, nearly proved the loss of his own life, which was way-laid, if Providence had not shielded him. But what a beautiful picture poor old Caleb's death, and confession, affords. How encouraging to a Missionary! and how pathetically, and naturally truely, Mr. Colenso depicts the old man's dying sentiments. Fine, bright morning. Wind from N.E. Reading Busby's letter to the Earl of Chichester, out of which the following notes are taken:- ''My belief is founded, not only upon actual observation, but on the circumstance that almost every purchase that I have known to be measured, has fallen short of the estimate. I give the following instances:- The Wesleyan Station at Mangangai, estimated at 800 acres, fell short of 300 acres. Station at Waima, 100; measures 34. Church Mission Station at Paihia, estimated 1064, measurement 512. My own neighbour claimed 1600 acres, and it proves to be only 800. My neighbour on the other side, 200 acres; my belief is that its actual quantity is under 20.(see page 14.) Again (page 42) out of 750 claims to land, which had been enquired into by a properly constituted tribunal, only 4 had been disputed.(See Shortland's letter to Secretary of State, Jan. 18th, 1845.) Secretary Hope's speech, 17th. June 1845, published by Mr. Young:- ''Lord Mansfield gave the following advice to a Naval Captain, appointed Governor of a Colony, also Chancellor, - 'Never attempt to explain the reasons for your judgement. By careful attention, you will, in 19 out of 20 cases, ''be able to give a just decision. But you will certainly fail in making the reason for that decision appear satisfactory to others.''' This remark I have repeatedly heard before; and experience proves it to be strictly true. The general tenor of Mr. Busby's letter is a refutation of Governor Grey's statements, in reference to the evils anticipated by His Excellency, in reference to the purchases made by the Missionaries. Purchased box and goods from Mr. Colenso, for £13.17.6. Left Mr. Colenso's in the afternoon. Called at Te Awatoto, where I met Tareha and Te Moana-nui, with whom I had a long conversation. Spoke to Tareha about selling the land at the entrance of the Harbour, on both sides; as the place would be an awkward purchase without it. Got to Mr. Ankatell's in the evening. Received a letter from Hori Nie Nie Te Waipukurau, in reference to a Surveyor being sent first to survey that Block. I sent a reply by same messenger. Takamoana has come to see me. My boys who crossed the Harbour for water, - there being none on this sanspit, - got a good ducking; and one of them Anatana's son, Hori, ventured back this evening with the canoe; the others being too frightened to undertake the crossing, from the heavy sea. I fear this place will become dangerous for boating, when it is established as a town. A sail in sight in the morning, raising our expectations. She turns out to be a Hobart-town brig, whaling. Called in for potatoes and fresh provisions. 3 months out. One whale, sperm, 6 tons. Going to Wakaairi to see the country, but prevented, from the gale setting in from the North. The Captain of the''Prince of Denmark'', whaler, landed this morning, and purchased a topsail yard spar from the natives, for £1. He said he would take it at night, if he could not get it otherwise from the natives. This, I told him, was sure to be found out, and that he should not attempt it. Hona and Mr. Ankatell had a case of dispute about some wheat; which I adjusted. The ''Rose'' schooner, from Wellington, is in sight. She cannot get in, owing to the Northerly gale. A report that Te Hapuku is endeavouring to hold some tracts of land for the natives, cannot succeed in doing so. A great anxiety being manifested by all the tribes, and sub-tribes, to sell their several districts of land, extending North and South from this place. Last night remained up reading the numerous letters I received, including a nice letter from my cousin Helen Mary McInnes; who was quite a child when I left Scotland. Governor-in-Chief arrived from Port Cooper, at Wellington. No news of importance. All quiet at Taranaki; and the several letters I received are of a favourable nature. The natives who are taken on, in Johnson's place, seem disposed to act a friendly part. Not able to do much, except receiving visits from the natives; who crowded down to Ahuriri, to ascertain if the surveyors had come by the ''Rose'', from Wellington; and to hear the news from there, which I gave them as far as I knew. Te Hapuku, Puhara, and Tareha, have come to see me, respecting their unsold claims. The latter has not yet agreed to sell the entrance to the harbour; but I believe he will soon do so. Hapuku is acting precisely as I have directed him; that is, he goes about negotiating, and arranging with his tribe, for the sale of more land; and to-day he tells me that he has obtained a very large, splendid district, including the best grazing land, at Heretaunga; so that great progress is being made in the negotiation for acquiring the whole of this country. Delivered nails to Hapuku to build a cottage for himself. Told Puhara that I would purchase his claims at Castle Point. Superstition is one of these principles that haunts the human mind; and is more essential to upholding the fabric of Society than any other ingredient with which man is endowed. To this mysterious quality, may be attributed the readiness with which the New Zealanders, and many other heathen nations, embrace Christianity, observe honesty, and good faith in their transactions; and induce certain formalities and manners into the social compact of a rude tribe; that prepares them for the reception of Christianity and civilization; subduing the ferocious savage mind, so as to reflect on futurity, and the consequences of gross barbarity, or other misconduct. Reflections on the effect of Christianity on the natives. It is one of the principal causes of our easy conquest and retention of the New Zealand Islands. It has done as much, if not more, than even chivalry, to blend and refine the manners of mankind's coarser elements of human nature, which are tempered and trained by its mysteries. (Burke's reflections on the French Revolution. P.215--216.) But the institutions savour of superstition in their very principle; and they nourish it by a permanent and lasting influence. This I do not mean to dispute; but this ought not to hinder you from deriving from superstition itself, any resources, which may thence be furnished for the public advantage. You derive benefit from many dispositions, and many passions of the human mind; which are of as doubtful a colour in the moral eye, as superstition itself. Mitigate and arrest what was noxious in this passion, as in all passions. But is superstition the greatest of all possible vices? In its possible excess, I think it becomes a very great evil. It is, however, a moral subject, admitting of all degrees of modification. Superstition is the religion of feeble minds; and they must be tolerated in an admixture of it, in some trifling or some enthusiastic shape or other; else you will deprive weak minds of a resource found necessary to the strongest Prudent man, making a choice of what errors he would condemn, or bear, would think the superstition which binds, more tolerable than that which demolishes; that which adorns a country, than that which deforms it; that which endows, than that which plunders; that which disposes to mistaken beneficence, than that which stimulates to real injustice; that which leads a man to refuse to himself lawful pleasures, than that which snatches from others the scanty subsistence of their self-denial. ''Such, I think, is nearly the state of the question between the ancient founders of monks to superstition, and the superstition of the pretended Philosophers of the hour.'' ''When men are encouraged to go into a certain mode of life, by the existing laws, and protected in that mode, as in a lawful occupation; when they have accomodated all their ideas, and all their habits to it; when the law had long made their adherence to its rules a ground of reputation; and their departure from them, a ground of disgrace, and even of penalty, I am sure it is unjust in legislature.'' In the afternoon paid Mr. Colenso a visit, and remained there for the night. ''By an arbitary act. to offer a sudden violence to their minds and their feelings; forcibly to degrade them from their state and condition; and to stigmatise with shame and infamy, that character, and those customs, which before had made the measure of their happiness and honour. ''If to this, be added an expulsion from their habitations, and a confiscation of all their goods. I am not sagacious enough to discover how this despotic sport, made of the feelings, consciences, prejudices, and properties of men, can be discriminated from the rankest tyranny.'' Had a long conversation with Mr. Colenso, respecting native customs, in reference to land, and the plans I have in view respecting it. Came back from Mr. Colenso's. Examined the little bay on the Island, facing the harbour; where water may be dug, and a house built for the surveyors. A man from Wairoa, offering to sell his land. Wrote to Hori, Ropiha, Taranaki, Col. Secretary, Wellington,(ferries on the coast.), and sent a message for Kurupo to come and see me at Ahuriri. The interruptions by natives, this week, have prevented me from getting on with much of my correspondence. However, I have made considerable advances in purchasing. Mr. Colenso seems anxious to commence a system of settling among the natives; of which I greatly approve; that is, - having a block of land to himself to divide among them, say 1000 acres; which should most decidedly - for such a philanthropic purpose - be readily granted, even at the expense of the Government. Reading Hall's ''Lectures and Sermons'', which are well written. The style is elegant; and the reasoning philosophical. Wrote to Wairarapa, for Medland to join me at this place. Answered a letter to Takamoana, and wrote to Te Moana-nui; also to Helen Mary McInnes, Duncan Mcinnes, and Uncle Donald. Te Moana-nui has come in from Kohinerakau, to see me about the sale of the block of land offered by Te Hapuku, of whom he is very jealous; which I have removed by telling him that Te Hapuku spoke of him as one of the principal claimants. This Chief is much in favour of selling a more extensive district, and giving up the Matau-o-Maui as a site for a town. Engaged writing to Wellington. The ''Rose'' returned from Mohaka. Sat up the greater part of the night, finishing letters. A man from Te Hapuku's village came to request me to remain till Monday; when they would take me to the Wairoa in their canoe. (This latter part of the entry should be inserted in to-morrow's journal.) Writing to Wellington, till the ''Rose'' sailed. Sent letters for Scotland, enclosed to Bethune; for Domett, and Attorney General; to Mr. Strang, c/o Capt. Grey. Informed the messenger from Hapuku that I would take my passage in their canoe. Writing to Taranaki in the morning. About 11 a.m. a fine Barque hove in sight; which, from a colour flying at the mast-head, I fancied might have been a vessel with Sir George Grey on board; or with surveyors for Ahuriri. Went out to her, and found, after a heavy pull, that she was an Hobart-town whaler, Capt. Bailey, 280 tons, 3 months out. Only 33 barrels oil. Papers to the 20th. December, notifying Louis Philippe's death. No other news. ''Runnymede'', the vessel's name, from the place in England celebrated for having the Magna Charter signed there. The Capt. kindly gave me some lunch; and sailed in, as it was blowing fresh to the Heads of the river; when he took leave of me, saying that he might probably come in in the morning, and give me a passage to Turanga, which I accepted. He gave me a good map of New Zealand, for which I intend to make him some return, by giving him fresh provisions of potatoes, if he lands. After my return I found the Wairoa canoes waiting for me at Ahuriri. Wrote by them to Rev. J. Hamlin, and sat up writing for Taranaki the greater part of the night, until all my official and private letters to the Sergeant of Police, Capt. King, and others, including C. Campbell;oJ. Wicksteed; W. Halse; W. Black; Mr. Webster; Major Wyatt; Rev. R. Taylor; Hori Kingi; Kawatene, ferryman; Poaha, Patea; Wiremu Kingi; Te Umuroa; Paora Kukutae; Ihaia; Waitara; Kaimokupune, Manawatu; Honi Ngamotu; Poharama; Mr. Sharland. It is a great satisfaction to go to bed on Saturday night, with the reflection that a week's duty has been well-attended to; and that my Wellington, English, and Taranaki correspondence is finished up; also that the land negotiations are progressing as well as I can wish, and as far as I can discern, my efforts proving successful. Spent the day quietly. Read portion of Hall's Lectures, and his able Sermon on infidelity; showing that even a superstitious zeal, which, according to Fabricus, had so long upheld the fabric of the Roman constitution, and the integrity of its public officers, was, in itself, a great sparkling of good or divine light, that Atheism was deficient of. Consequently that it was the most dangerous evil that could insinuate itself into any State. The idea of dying like the brute creation, being productive of the worst, the the basest, and the most malevolent feelings of the human heart. Hence the brutish, reckless, lawless conduct of the French, during the Revolution; and the entire extinction of all principles for the presavation of order and peace. However the evil was rolling on like a dirty mountain torrent, that would soon expend itself, having no perrenial springs to support it. In the morning, despatched Private William Stewart, to resume his police duties at Taranaki, and carry my despatches there. At half past 7 a.m. all packed and on board the canoe for Te Wairoa. At 12 got to Moiengiengi, a distance, probably, of 25 miles, when, the wind heading us, we landed, and cooked some food. Te Ropiha tells me that Mr. W.B. Rhodes paid several articles for Te Wairoa, to a Chief named Umuharoa; who has a protuberance on his forehead, and is at present stopping here. About 30 different articles were paid to him, such as 5 casks powder, iron pots, etc. The place where we camp with our canoes is a quarter of a mile South of the settlement; where a whaling station was once established. The remains of the works are still standing; and it may be easily guessed that many a bottle of rum and brandy, so called, has been drunk at this wretched-looking spot, with over-hanging cliffs, 500 feet high; and a mudbank on its margin, or spume thrown off during a heavy rain, forms the only spot for the erection of a hut; of which there are a few remains. The rocks here are composed of a conglomerate of soft, sandy, clayey slate. The land offered for sale at Te Wairoa is of great extent, and well-wooded. Wrote Mr. Anketell to forward my letters, and sent Eniera back for any that might come. In the morning at 5 a.m. started, and got to Mohaka, about 10 a.m.; where the natives, and particularly Paora, the Chief, received us very kindly. The natives collected; and offered, in several set speeches, to sell Mohaka, if it were worth accepting. I told them that as the interior of the river was sold, the freshets would soon reach the sea; which they construed into a partial assent on my part, to purchase the land. It is rich, hilly, and wooded along the banks of the river, with occasional flats of fern. At 5 a.m. left Mohaka, for Te Wairoa; where we landed, after a smart pull, by 11 a.m. Breakfasted at Mr. Lewis', and called at Mr. Hamlin's station, and at a neat cottage in front of the Mission House, kept by a Scotchman, who came out in the ''Bengal Merchant'' in 1840. He trades in flax, and has a neat garden. Pulled up the Wairoa several miles. The land is rich and fertile on both banks of the river; but from the numerous tribes on the river, I would prefer, for some years at least, to have only one side of the river, and let them enjoy the other side; as our cattle and sheep would destroy their crops, and create a fertile source of trouble. This I told the natives; and explained to them that if they were all agreed to sell, they should fix the price and boundaries of the Block; which I should write down, and hereafter consider the price to be given for it, and the time when it should be purchased. Te Koari, a fine old Chief, 6 ft. 3 in, and stout in proportion, is a good specimen of the old New- Zealander; and the young natives say that he is ''The Last Mohaican'' in size and resemblance to the Chiefs of former days. He estimates the number of men at Te Wairoa at 600; and probably the whole population of this river does not exceed 1800. Like Esau, who sold his birthright, this old Chief gave up a fine Block of land to Maihi Papatahi's husband; who cooked the food, and to whom the old Chief gave the land, in exchange for this meal of kumaras, at a time when the Chief and his party were collecting Kie Kie. Went over to see the Apotu, an old Chief, who is at variance with this party, but who seems a friendly person. His party said that they had no land to dispose of, as they were more numerous than they had land to occupy. Beautiful groves of ripe peaches grow about his place, that would soon be picked off by English children. Yet the native boys and girls move about without ever coveting them. Te Ropiha, one of the Chiefs, has gone up the river to assemble all the claimants to the land they wish to sell at Te Wairoa. A large Meeting of Te Koari's tribe. All favourable to the sale of their land; the boundaries of some portions of which, were pointed out to me, by the old Chief, Te Wi, and others. The sentiments of the natives generally are favourable; and I think the South bank of the river may be easily purchased. To deprive them of more, however anxious they are to sell, would be unjust to them, as they are a very numerous tribe, about 2000. Made a present to the old Koari, of £1, and a shirt, 3/6. Messrs. Lewis, and Mitchell, trader and whaler at this place, called up to see me. The land here is rich mould, with grass, fern, and bush; well suited for pasture or agriculture. In answer to the native speeches, I told them that it might be some time before the land was settled for. However, if they would fully agree on the subject, and give me the boundaries, and the price they desired for the land, on my return from Turanga, that I would hold a further conversation with him on the subject; but that at present I could not delay longer at Te Wairoa, and that I wished to start to-morrow up the river. About half past 9 a.m. we pulled up in two fine war canoes; with several smaller ones; to the Waiau, an inland boundary of the Block; and pitched our tents at Rangiwhatima, a nice settlement on the North bank of the river. The Wairoa, on both sides, is a splendid, rich country, that will be eventually, of great value and importance; and the natives are most hospitable and kind in their manner. I was more amused than annoyed, as a stranger would be, at our slow movements in starting. There was so much talk, adjusting, going ashore for paddles, and things forgotten; all ordering, and none acting; that before we moved from the bank, a full half hour was spent; and almost always in these large canoes, this is the case, with natives, before they start. Then they go on slowly; then more rapidly; then to a race full speed. Then, almost suddenly, to a full stop of another half, or three quarters of an hour, before they move. Thus the day is spent in alternate intervals of idleness, landing and eating at each other's villages, and going at railway speed, when urged by any sudden impulse to do so. We are not more than 5 miles from where we started in the morning, and it is now 4 p.m. Paraj Kohare's eldest son is evidently a man of great importance, and a large claimant on the Wairarapa; who will no doubt be able to unite the claimants of his district, to sell, and act with him, as ''Rauna tangaha tahi.'' Heavy rain during the night, and the forenoon. Confined to tent the greater part of the day. Went to hear a native sermon at the next village, which was preached by Paul, a teacher at this place, from Corinth. 14. 24. ''Only one that runneth shall gain the prize.'' Left at 9 a.m. for Te Reinga, accompanied by Te Koari and Te Ropiha. The land becomes more hilly and broken; the flats on the river less extensive, but equally rich. As we ascended, we passed, or rather, dined, at Maungaaruhu, on the right bank of the river. The natives of Te Wairoa use tobacco of their own growth, contributing hardly anything to the Revenue by that means. As far as I have yet observed, the North, or left bank, is the most level; at least as far as Opoiti; which is a pretty settlement on the Maungapoiki river; which runs through the country to Turanga. There is a nice Church built here, and a nice set of natives.Paora, the Chief, is a fine fellow. A nice grove of peach trees, and grapes, add much to the appearance of the place. The women, who frequently carry the day, are extravagant in their praises of Te Pakeha. Good sheep grazing across the Mangapoiki; where Hauauru, the Hauraki Chief, slaughtered many of this tribe. The old Chief, Koari Te Ropiha, and others, leave me to-day; so that I go on with my own natives, and hope to make a better day's journey. The natives here say that the Moa exists at Wakapunaki; and that they frequently get an occasional Moa feather in the neighbourhood of the mountain. On asking them to produce a feather, they said they had buried them with their dead. The country gets hilly and broken on both sides of the river. Left the canoe at Te Reinga; and I went to see a grand water-fall in the channel of Te Reinga; which is a narrow and deep river, with a roaring heavy fall of water, and various caves, and perforations, said to be a Taniwha's residence. How wonderful, O God, are Thy works; and how insignificant man appears in the midst of the wonders of Thy creation! The projection from the waterfall, is Kaitangata. Tarewa-rangi is a cliff overhanging it. Hine-tapui above that again. Te Aniwaniwa is the channel. Wairekana, at the entrance, a grand sight. Spent 2 hours at this Pa; where we got a canoe to go up the Whangaroa. The Ruakituri strikes off to the South West from this place. Pulled up about 3 miles, and ascended ferny ridges to the West end of Wakapunaki; which is covered with wood and fern; with a white clay-like rock on the higher, or tertiary stratum. It may be 1500 ft. from the level of the sea. The land along the ridges is poor, hilly, and ferny; with a few lagoons, raupo flats, and ragged bush; where a few cultivations have been once. Our guide, E Waka, knows the country, and tells me its general character in the interior, which is rough and ferny. It certainly is, so far as the eye can see towards the horizon, with a clear setting sun. Camped by the nearest lagoon, it being quite dark, when the pikans got up. Started at half past 5 a.m. A fine, dewey morning, reminding me of our peat cutting days. The country looks very broken. Met a party returning from Turanga, at the place where we halted for breakfast. Our guid objected to use the potatoes growing there, as they belonged to a pikopo, or Roman Catholic party. This, I told him, was wrong; as these potatoes were equally good as any others. Paid the guide, E Waka, 1 shirt,3/6. Descended a very steep, dangerous hill, about 500 feet, a part of which was very slippery. At the worst place I took the hand of E Pona, Hauranga's lad, a fine, stout, young native. It is so burning hot that we are, at half past 11 a.m., obliged to encamp on a riverside, to cool ourselves, and rest for an hour or two, till the heat of the sun diminishes. Te Hauranga is using an improved method for keeping in the shade, by dipping his cotton umbrella in the stream to soak. E Waka tells me that bird-snaring in this part of the country is done with a snare canoe, in which water gorgled out of a calabash, to resemble the sound of a stream. When the pigeon comes to drink, he is seized in the water. There is ingenuity, even in bird-snaring by savages! Passed a few huts on the Wangaroa, or Takangao-Maui, the property of Te Waka Parahuka, Chief of Turanga. White, bleak, clayey hills, interspersed with small flats, and some bush. Got to encampment at a quarter to 9, after a heavy walk over a miserable, poor country, in every respect; except that there is fine fresh water. We have travelled about 20 miles since morning. Started at half past 4 a.m. A fine, dry morning, with a Southerly breeze. No dew. Ascended the mountain. Rested while we ate some bread, and a pitcher of fresh water. At half past 8 we got to an encampment; where we are now getting on a large fire to roast potatoes for breakfast. The water throughout this hilly country is delicious; and even on a grey Summer's morning, a draught of it on the mountain-top, surpasses the finest mountain dew (?) that ever was distilled! A mouthful of wheaten bread gives it additional relish. Started at 10. Got on to a small grassy meadow, good walking, at 11 a.m.; and excepting one ride, about a mile long, we had a flat to walk through, till 1 p.m.; when we got to the Arai river, that passes the Turanga Pa. We bathed here. Had a cup of tea. Then came on through a nice flat, to some native cultivations. Then through a mile of fine bush, on to Hinerangi hill, which overlooks a plain, (surrounded by heavy bush), of 600 acres of splendid land, most of which is under cultivation, with even men's huts, horses and cattle in sight. A pleasant contrast to what we have passed through. The change is not greater in the country than on the countenances of the natives; who seem quite rejoiced at seeing an inhabited country again. We got to Waka Perahuka's, (the principal Chief), residence; where we stopped, and had a long and interesting talk with the natives. E Waka said that some of the natives wished to sell their land; that others did not; that he had sold without the knowledge of the other natives, a tract of land, for spades, pots, and what he called shells of pana, (meaning some money), to a European, named Hatareti; afterwards, that Captain Rhodes, in passing in a vessel, purchased all the country, giving two blankets, and some other articles for Turanga; that they had all their wants supplied by the Europeans already among them; that the Ngapuhis at the Bay of Islands quarrelled with the Whites after they sold their land, and could not get even firewood for themselves; that he himself was glad to see Europeans come among them, both by sea and land; that their new clergyman had thrown fresh light on the reduced value of English goods; that their former ministers gave them spiritual advice; but that this one combines temporal and spiritual advice. He welcomed us, told us that the natives greatly desired to see us, to regulate and advise with them, respecting their dealings with the Europeans. The whole of the natives seem very friendly. They gave us a calabash full of honey in the comb, melons, etc. Went down to see Mr. Smith, a Yankee, who is an extensive trader at this place. He received me kindly, prepared some food, and introduced me to a good-looking young wife, in appearance something like Lady Grey, which he brought from England with him. I am glad to have got this far across a bad, hilly, poor country, in perfect safety, excepting one or two cuts in the feet, that will soon cure. I hear that the natives are anxious to have a Meeting with me tomorrow. Walked down to the Pa with E Waka, and several other natives, to a small village; where we had a few speeches and breakfast. Thence to a Pa, where I saw the most elegantly carved native house in New Zealand. The Chiefs soon assembled, dressed in handsome dog-skin mats, and spoke sarcastically - especially Raharuha, a second-rate Chief, - as to the benefits of Europeans; remarking that, if, at the towns where we came from, natives could get their goods for nothing, then he would think of having a town also. The old men were more favourable in their sentiments, welcoming us as strangers. I told them that I was not authorised at present, by the Government, to treat with them for land; but that I should hear anything they had to say on the subject, and learn their desires, for future consideration. At present I only wished to become acquainted with the place and the people. Mr. Harris asked me to dine with them; which I did, and found old Capt. Stewart there. Mr. Harris has a nice garden, and tolerable house. He has been 20 years in the country, and knows a good deal about the natives, and is communicative. Called on Mrs.Grace; who kindly invited me to go and stay at the Mission House, where she had a bedroom for me. I declined her kind invitation. Heard all she had to say respecting the late troubles of Rev. Mr. Grace with the settlers, for interfering with the native trade, and terms on which cattle are grazed; causing great confusion and discontent. Mrs. Grace is a remarkably nice person, and learning the native language rapidly. There are 96 Europeans at this place. A flourishing trade is carried on; and with a little encouragement, it would become a most prosperous portion of the Island. Slept in tent; and had a long conversation with some of the natives in front of the door, before going to bed. Breakfasted at Mr. King's; who lives in a neat cottage. Dined at Mr. Harris'. Took a ride to Puketapu; where I had a good view of the country. Called at Mr. Rich's., just returned from Auckland; 4 days' passage. News General Pitt's death, 4 weeks ago. Tea at Mr. Rich's. They seem agreeable people. Spent the day at the Mission Station, which is a comfortable place, with good garden. Started to Turanganui with Mr. Harris. Called at the settlers' houses, and dined with Mr. Dunlop; where we were joined by Mr. W.B. Baker, from uawa; who arrived with the celebrated Chief Te Kani Otakirau, who frankly welcomed me, although he was taken rather by surprise when I got up to him. We got back in a heavy fall of rain to Mr. Harris'. The only emblem of Chieftainship about Te Kani's person, was a bone meri, decorated with tapes of hair about the handle, and waved carelessly about in his right hand, as he rode on horseback. He is a fine, intelligent looking man, but not strikingly so. Not nearly so much of determination in his features as Te Hapuku possesses; nor even so much of the gentleman, in countenance, as Te Rawiri, a cousin of his at Turanganui; but in reality he is, and is freely acknowledged by all the natives, to be one of the greatest men on this side of the Island. After 2 p.m., the natives had a Meeting, about the sale of land for a township; which was opposed by Tahae, a Chief who claims the entrance to Turanganui river; also by Rawiri, and Wakakuri. In favour, Waka Horitiroa Komiro, and Turangi; also the great majority of the younger people. Raharuhi spoke most fairly; but on the whole, evasively in some respects. He has a bad countenance. The great fear against having a town is their being put in gaol for theft, which they seem to dread greatly. I told Te Kani, as they were so divided in their conversation, and as there was no hurry about purchasing, that I should leave the Meeting, after he spoke, which he did at once, to the effect that they were not yet sufficiently honest to have Europeans among them; neither were they decided, prepared, or unanimous about the subject. The Island was now all in the name of the Europeans. Their talk was not, as far as he could judge, sufficiently matured. Therefore he would request me to leave them for this day; which I did, and went to Mr. King's to tea. Dined at Mrs. Grace's, and went out with Mr. Rich to see the country, from a hill about the flat, commanding a good view of 50,000 acres of good flat land. Tea and dance at Mr. Rich's, who seems well acquainted with the country, and farming, etc.
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Bibliographic details

78 pages to Sir Donald McLean, related to William Colenso, d Te Hapuku, Wairoa District, Pukehou, Gisborne District, Central Hawke's Bay District, Waipukurau, Ngati Kahungunu, Diaries and notebooks

Additional information
Key Value
Document date 1 January 1851
Document MCLEAN-1008793
Document title 78 pages to Sir Donald McLean, related to William Colenso, d Te Hapuku, Wairoa District, Pukehou, Gisborne District, Central Hawke's Bay District, Waipukurau, Ngati Kahungunu
Document type MANUSCRIPT
Attribution ATL
Author Unknown
Collection McLean Papers
Date 1850-12-14
Decade 1850s
Destination Unknown
Englishorigin ATL
Entityid None
Format Full Text
Generictitle 78 pages to Sir Donald McLean, related to William Colenso, d Te Hapuku, Wairoa District, Pukehou, Gisborne District, Central Hawke's Bay District, Waipukurau, Ngati Kahungunu
Iwihapu 5800/Ngati Kahungunu
Language English
Name 4809/McLean, Donald (Sir), 1820-1877
Origin Unknown
Place 66396/Wairoa District
Recipient 4809/McLean, Donald (Sir), 1820-1877
Section Manuscripts
Series Series 5 Diaries and notebooks
Sortorder 0388-0001
Subarea Manuscripts and Archives Collection
Tapuhigroupref MS-1231-1240
Tapuhiitemcount 10
Tapuhiitemcount 2 100
Tapuhiitemcount 3 30238
Tapuhiitemdescription One box containing eleven small volumes
Tapuhiitemgenre 3 230058/Personal records Reports
Tapuhiitemname 3 4809/McLean, Donald (Sir), 1820-1877
Tapuhiitemref MS-1231-1240
Tapuhiitemref 2 Series 5 Diaries and notebooks
Tapuhiitemref 3 MS-Group-1551
Tapuhiitemsubjects 1704/Whakapapa
Tapuhiitemsubjects 3 1446/New Zealand Wars, 1860-1872
Tapuhiitemtitle Diaries and notebooks
Tapuhiitemtitle 2 Series 5 Diaries and notebooks
Tapuhiitemtitle 3 McLean Papers
Tapuhipiecedescription The diary entries begin with negotiations at Waipukurau with Ngati Kahungunu leaders for land. The dominant figure in these negotiations is Te Hapuku and his speech so impressed McLean that a long translation of it is included. The following entries describe his progress into Hawkes Bay, negotiations for Ahuriri and on to Mohaka and to Poverty Bay. As with his other journals there are descriptions of places visited and Maori and Europeans met. It was on this journey that he first met William Colenso. Includes Maori notes including copy of speech made by Te Hapuku at Waipukurau, 14 December 1850
Tapuhipiecedisplaydate 14 Dec 1850-12 Feb 1851
Tapuhipieceref MS-1231
Tapuhipiecesearchdate 1850-1851
Tapuhipiecetitle Diary
Tapuhireelref MS-COPY-MICRO-0664-4
Teipb 1
Teiref ms-1286-141
Year 1850

78 pages to Sir Donald McLean, related to William Colenso, d Te Hapuku, Wairoa District, Pukehou, Gisborne District, Central Hawke's Bay District, Waipukurau, Ngati Kahungunu Diaries and notebooks

78 pages to Sir Donald McLean, related to William Colenso, d Te Hapuku, Wairoa District, Pukehou, Gisborne District, Central Hawke's Bay District, Waipukurau, Ngati Kahungunu Diaries and notebooks

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