HINTS ON GRAFTING.

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 169, 22 August 1914, Page 2

HINTS ON GRAFTING.

Although grafting has been the subject of many articles, it is one-of such importance that practical views from different sources cannot be too often expressed. Many a good tree is completely rained by either careless workmanship, inexperience on the part of the operator, or by doing the. work at the wrong period of the season. No hard or fast rule can be laid down as to the time to do this work, it all depends upon the district and climatic conditions. The best guide is to watch carefully for the flow of spring sap, and then cut or break off a small portion of the tree which it is intended to graft. If the bark lifts freely jind conies clean away from the wood, the grower would be quite safe in going on -with the work. On the contrary, if the bark refuses to lift cleanly, it "would be folly to attempt to do the grafting. Another very important point, in fact, the most vital of all, is the selection of the scion, or future tree. Do not select from young trees, if it can be avoided, and at all times beware of selecting from the leading branches. [Lateral growth from well established, and, if possible, heavy bearing trees, always give the best results." In the apple districts of this State, where the growers are,propagating, their own trees, care should be taken .to graft the stocks well above the ground line. Unfortunately, in the past, this small point "was not given much consideration, and has resulted income of the leading orchardists having considerable .trouble iii -.combatting woolly. .aphis. As the trees had to be planted so low, instead of all the roots coming from the stock, a few fibrous roots shot out from around the scipn, and were immediately attacked by the aphis. In grafting over old fruit trees, the simplest method is to cut off the branches to be worked with a sharp saw, and make a perpendicular cut right through the bark about two inches long. Then prepare the scion by cutting wedge shape, and insert it into the tut made in the old tree. Tie tightly with either raffia fibre or wax cloth. The latter for preference. Then place tither mud or wax around to keep perfectly airtight. The top of the scion should also be waxed, to prevent it from drying out.. A good grafting wax made up with the following material: —lib wax, 21b resin, and half a pint of raw linseed oil. When this mixture is thoroughly- dissolved, unbleached calico, if steeped in it, and then drawn out between two boards, held tightly,-will retain sufficient of the mixture to make it perfectly airtight. Should the weather be cold when grafting, use less resin than is given in this formula. This same cloth will be found even better than raffia fibre for budding purposes, as it not only keeps the wounds made in the young wood perfectly airtight, but it also prevents the woolly aphis from getting into the cuts before they have had time to heal. If it can be avoided, do riot attempt to graft during wet weather. If the scion gets wet, it frequently happens that before it has properly set a fungus growth will attack it with disastrous results.

Grafting is to be recommended for all seed fruits, but for stone fruits budding is very much easier, and gives far better results. 1 This is particularly noticed in the case of peaches, which, if large cuts are made upon them, are always subject to gumming disease; but if budded, the chances against this are greatly reduced. For amateurs, budd'ng is much easier than grafting, but it should first of all be' practised on the yearling wood. The summer buds are always much stronger than those budded in the spring time. The reason for this is that the spring buds always send out a small growth ihe same season. These young shoots are immediately subjected to hot winds, or have to fight against a• spell of hot dry weather befQre they are. firmly united to the stock. On the other hand, buds inserted in the summer time lie dormant all the winter, and are in a strong position to throw out the new growth immediately the sap begins to flow. The selection of buds, which are to be used, is very important. Only use well seasoned and fully matured "wood. If immature buds are used, they will lie dormant until they arc fully matured, before attempting to out any shoot, and consequently a season is lost through this trifling matter. Although much has been said to the ■contrary, it is certainly a great advantage to allow the small piece of wood which is always cut off with the bud to remain, as it strengthens the bark, and makes the handling of the work much quicker and easier performed. If for instance an old apricot tree had to be re-worlced, it would be better to cut oft' all the branches but one. This one branch is left to draw the sap from the roots. On no accdunt cut off all the branches, as if so the tree will probably die. On account of the brittle nature of the apricot wood, care must be taken not to attempt to bend it, as it will snap right off.