LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Otago Witness, Volume 11, Issue 2280, 11 November 1897, Page 52

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

London, September 17.

Dear Emmeline, — In reality, though the manufacturers are sending out great quantities of satin, cashmere, and clotb, there are but few indications of any decided novelty just yet in. the dress material line.

Satin cloth of a very fine; texture and glossy surface is being shown to some extent; not only in plain or *elf' colours,*-buV alsoin email checks and stripes. Poplins give promise of being favourites a little later on, and already the Dachess^of- York find -other leaders of fashion have appeared in handsome costumes of. poplin, some of which have been bedecked with lace and velvet, and the combination of the three materials has been a happy and most attractive one. Then tartans, which hava been much to the fore in Paris for a long while, are a promised revival over here; but to nearly everyone they are so disfiguring, as they apparently, c d too much to broaden the Bizj of the 'wearer. However, plaids are among the new season's goods in woollen and silken materials alike, and some of the plaids are simply enormous, one check, I Bbould think, beitig sufficiently large to form the whole back of a bodice. But perhaps there is a slight exaggeration here 1 Then again there are mixtures of silk and wool woven in many and varied designs. Some ha\ c a raised pattern, and others are spotted, sprigged, or figured in an arabeeque design. But in this class of material the newest pattern is that known in Paris as " Shower of Rain." So far I have not yet seen this particular design myself, but I have bad it described to me, and will therefore try to give you some idea as to what it is like. The material itself is of fine, self-coloured wool, and with it is woven "short, loose ends of silk somewhat after the fashion of the points of wool in Indian cashmere." These threads' of silk, which, I am. told, lend a very bright and glittering appear ace?, ere sometimes the game tint as t he: material 4i self ] but they are not infre-^ qaently pf-a darker or lighter 'shade, or else 'white, or'j again, of a: contrasting tone:-" • ; Velvet, it* goes without ..Baying, will' again hold its own for blouaer for day and evening" wear, as well^s for complete dreßsf s-Jo'r both occasions. A »few of tfa'e velvet ' blouses j which have yet made their appearance are very simply made, and merely brightened 'by means of a few pretty buttons and a lightlookiDg lace and chiffon jabot at the ueck. Later on fur will be used as a trimming for them, with perhaps the addition of a little jet or coloured passementerie. But the plainer a velvet blouse is the nicer it looks.

There are rumours afloat that the leading Parisian and some of the best English dressmakers are fully determined to introduce trimmed skirts, making them take the place of the plain variety, and it has been announced that " plain skirts are in all cases superseded by the new- models." I am told that one fashionable costumier recently refused to make a plain cashmere skirt for one .of his customers. Beside the latest stjle of flouncing — that of having. six of graduating depth, the top one being met by a pointed handkerchief drapery going all round — some of the new skirts are to have round the hips gatherings of six or seven cords. This style is hideously unbecoming except for the very slightest of the slight who seemingly are minus hips. Of course it becomes doubly bulky when it is used in the conjuction -with winter woollen material?, which are invariably thick and heavy. Small flounces which trim the 'foot of the Bkirt are generally edged with a row of narrow, ribbon" velvet or satin ribboD, or else the little fringes which wer£ greatly nj,vogue : yjears ago and which are now once more being called into requisition. This class of trimming is most often black. Beaded passementeries are going rfowly out after a highly successful rfign of several season?, and in their place we are to have, braid, little ruchings of silk or of the material", narrow ribbon velvet, or else the above- mentioned frinee. I think ib is a pity that fringes are again being introduced, they always look so raggj. Bub on autumn coats and bodices as well as on skirts braiding is all the ragp, the back seams of the bodices being outlined with it in military fashion, while the' bodies fronts show endless braided designs, many of which are very pretty. It is black braid which is most used, no matter what may be the shade of the dress material ; consequently many of the combinations, particularly certain shades of brown braided with black, are feaifully dingy. But re'ief may be found by having white or cream or some light contrasting shade of cloth under the braiding, and one shows off the other to much better advantage, and altogether greatly enhances the appearance of the whole costume.

It is freely stated that the time is not far distant when trained skirts will be revived, but nob, let us hope, for street wear. They are enough bother at any time, but in the daytime they look and soon get dreadfully draggle-tailed, get in people's way, and collect" all the filth of the streets. Until they take a firm hold I will not believe that people will be «o idiotic as to countenance their revival.

There Is still one more forecast with which I have just become acquainted: that is, the redingote dress is spoken of as an attractive novelty for the near future.

From one of the most fashionable West End dressmakers I learn fchab tailor-made govras will have their bodices made with

habit basques, or else with several small tabs. Pointed backs are also being made, bnt not to such a large extent, and before longthey, will be quite superseded by the habit back — a style .which has not been in for a good many years. Tabbed basques will only be the craze for a time, but habit backs will come to stay.

For a long time it has seemed to me that fashions with regard to millinery have been at a very low ebb, but nowr although winter fashions are not authentically declared, I have one or two notes which may prove of interest. At the prerent tpomenr, doubtless, the most fashionable material for hats and toques is a beautifully soft rich fabric that catches the light and shade, and has a surface which sometimes reminds one of Lyons velvet, and when seen in a different light recalls silken plush. This new millinery material is known as antique satin, ib is ueed in the compilation of hats of the boat shape order, of the picture order, and also of those worn for travelling, as well as for toques. Ib may be had in ail shade?, and one" day recently I saw some of it used for trimming a dress.

Light-coloured straws as a rule look cold and cheerless cow, and eipecially when trimmed with chiffon, muslin, and. lightcoloured ribbon j so this class of hat is being put away. But' sun Panama straws are still worn, und arc- simply trimmed with velvet and a large aigrette. This, is an immensely popular style of headgear.. „, j ' The besffoqaei and many of the best hat* haye,a jewelled crown and a velvet brim, or 'vice .versa. The Tarn o' Shanter crown is 'still in to certain extent, bub there is not the rage for it which prevailed when -the., fashion was first introduced. However, this is .not by any means a drawback ; rather the reverce. It really was too .dreadful when hundreds of people clapped Tarn o' Shanter crowns of velvet on to old straw hats. The wonder to me ii that Tarn o' Shanter crowns are in at now all considering how dreadfully common they once became. Velvet and cloth hats with this sort of crown will have folds of lighter velvet round the brim and an aigrette at one side.

Feathers will be much to the fora on felt and velvet hats, but nothing seems to b« ao prominent a feature in the millinery world as birds and wings. Maay of the former are most beautiful creatures, and are principally . white in tone. What . will the S«lborne' League say to this fashion ? I must confess it will be terribly hard to resist one of these lovely creatures. There are many varieties of -aigrettes, the majority of which are pretty, fluffy, and soft looklrg,- particularly I the variety known as " lamb* tail feather." There is no doubt that just for the present flowers are taking a "back seat." They are really comparatively seldom Been. Chrysanthemums are being brought; forward as the moat appropriate bloom of the season, and before long violets will make their appearance. A little later on fur will be ueed in the construction of hats, bonnet's, and' toques, in combination . with velvet, acd lace -will— also - appear with- it* ' ''Then, -perhaps ' flower?, particularly- violets, *wiih be" more' prominent than ;'they"'are' jns.t' now.' - Hat's ' still are of thy npwajLd.turn^andlare likely, to rem?*n so.' „ , . >.-„,, ~/'~ . -„ , ' . In- Varic, veils are becoming, conspicuous by their .absence.'. There are plenty , of people, - however, who > still ' cling to this protection, and they are favouring black mash dotbed sparsely with small white spots; For travelling some people ars wearing their veils tied, in American fashion— that is, tied round the " hat and passing again to beneath the chin, where they fasten. It is too soon yeb to talk about furs, but it is said that the white varieties are to como into favour, especially ermine, while whitecrested grebe will probably be in again after its long spell of seclusion, though mosb likely this latter will be used more for edging the new redingotes. Ostrich feather boas ana necklets are all the rage at the present time, and the favourite tones are white and ; natural coloured. They are most becoming and soft-looking, especially when nice and full. Of course they are expensive. — Yours truly, Zkalia.