My Pilgrimage to Palestine.

Otago Witness, Issue 1297, 7 October 1876, Page 4

My Pilgrimage to Palestine.

By Rbv, Dr. Copland, Dunedin.

No. XXIII. Jaffa.

We arrived at the roadstead opposite Jaffa early in the morning while most of the passengers were still in their berths. Feeling that tho ship had dropped anchor, we hurried up on deck with, eager curiosity to take our first view of the Holy Land. We were lying at the distance •of a mile from the shore, but as it was clear weather, we obtained a good view of the town, which ia picturesquely situate, , Its walls are washed by the sea, and behind them ara seen the grey-looking utone houaes with the usual flat roofs, closely built together, rising one above another, as if they were built on a huge ant-hill, or on the back of a tortoise, or a stranded whale.

Oar contemplation of the scene before us, and our musings on the hallowed memories and associations which are apt to crowd upon us in such circumstances, were broken in upon by the insinuating and persistent addresses of some dragomans, who had come on board in search of any passengers whom they might induce to accept of their services. After making full enquiries and considering the matter, we arranged with one who rejoiced iv the name of Solomon Ali, to take us to Jerusalem, making provision for our necessities by the way and attending to all necessary arrangements for our visiting the places of interest in and around the Holy City. Our new-found protector was a tall young man of intelligence and activity, a native of Jaffa. He waa dressed in the imposing array of most of his class. He wore a fez or tarboosh, and a jacket well covered with embroidery. A variegated girdle of ample dimensions encircled his waisc, which was rendered formidable to the beholders by the handle of a dagger which protruded from it. Near it was suspended from a belt a revolver in a leather case, which gave ominous warning to ali whom it might concern that fair dealing with htm would be the best policy. Beneath he wore the usual Oriental continuations, of showy colours nnd ample dimensions. Crossing one shoulder, and fixed beneath the arm of the opposite side, lie had a silken cord with numerous tassels, the use of which I was at first puzzled to guess. I found afterwards the purpose which it served. When travelling under the Btrongheat and glare of the aun, a square silk handkerchief was thrown over the head outside the fez, and this cord, which was adjusted to the size, was drawn down until it encircled the brow and the back part of the head and kept the whole fixed, leaving the ends of the handkerchief to float loosely over the cheeka and back of the neck.

A number of boats, manned by Arabs vrho were very scantily clad, some of them with only a shirt or a. tunic, were waiting to convey passengers ashore. As the sea was comparatively smooth, notwithstanding the swell which, I suppose, is never absent in the calmest weather, we succeeded with little difficulty in getting aafely into one, and as we approached the shore we discovered the reason why the vessel anchored so far outside. A reef of rocks rising but little above the water stretches parallel with the shore at some distance from it. This natural breakwater forms the harbour, which can only serve to give protection to boats or very small vessels. The depth inside varies from 6 to 10 feet, and it is entered only by a narrow channel formed by a gap between tho rocks, which is perhap3 30 or 40 feet in width. Even in the calmest ■weather, care is required to avoid being driven upon them, for there is continual commotion among the waves, produced by the interruption of these rocks. In Jonah's days, most probably the harbour inside would be much deeper than it is now, as the sand has been steadily silted up ever since, and no means such as dredging has been ever known to be used to counteract its effect. The rocky wall, however, which nature has cast around it remains no doubt in the very same condition as when he passed' through it wheD Betting out on his memorable voyage. A number of small vessels were lying alongside the city walls which rise out of the harbour forming the inner side of it. They bring merchandise from neighbouring ports, and take away cargoes of oranges, lemons, and fruits of many sorts for which Jaffa is famous in the surrounding countries. An enemy who might attempt to land here would have a difficult task if tho defenders possessed average bravery and a fair supply of warlike resources. Indeed, unless the town were first bio \vn to pieces about their ears, I should think the enterprise almost hopeless. With the powerful artillery which the ships of war now carry, there would be no difficulty in laying it in ruina while the assailants wore at a very safe distance outside. They could not have a surer target to hit.

Owing to tho narrow and rocky entrance to this natural harbour, which is dangerous for every kind of craft unless the- sea is perfectly calm, it frequently happens that passengers who have come by the steamers intending to land hero aye compelled to extend their voyage in whatever direction the ship may be bound, and return at a rooro favourable opportunity. I felt thankful, therefore, as we glided aafely between the rocky pillars guarding this primitive harbour aad found ourpolves at the foot of tho ancient, greasy]

unprotected stair which affords the onlylanding place from the boats. At the top of this ia a narrow gateway through which we emerge into the city. Usually, thero is sufficient confusion here, caused by passengers and boatmen carrying up their baggage and struggling for foothold with others who are descending, to make the weak and timid feel concerned about their safety. To make matters worse, there is usually some official in Turkish uniform, who takes care to let all know that he attends to the interests of the douane or Custom House, and has therefore a legal right to search your baggage and cause you any amount of trouble in connection with it. Your dragoman, however, explains to you that the practical meaning of the demonstration is simply that you pay this faithful officer a gratuity — usually, I think, a franc for each piece of luggage — which at once satisfies his conscientious mind that your baggage is free from all contraband goods, and may be safely passed without examination. If any individual is strong in his detestation of all official corruption, and determines to set his face against it, he will, I fear, have but little satisfaction in carrying out his virtuous resolution. The practice followed by these officials, who watch at every port and levy blackmail on all travellers in this systematic way, is so generally recognised and openly followed, that it assumes a very different aspect from any attempt at bribery or corruption which may be practised by a British official. In the Turkish Empire instead of something being rotten, as in the state of Denmark, everything is rotten, and the stranger must submit to the exigencies of his surroundings. As soon as we have passed this narrow gateway and felt ourselves on solid ground, we observe indications of much more bustle and activity than may be witnessed in any other town of Palestine. We see numerous Arab porters hard at work carrying large boxes of oranges to load the vessels that are moored to the wall, either swinging them over the top or carrying them down these dangerous stair 3 which we have just ascended. Tall, solemn-looking camels in strings of two or three, tied each to his predecessor's tail, stride along with their capacious burdens rocking at their sides. Men of nautical, amphibious habits and dress are bustling through the throng, expressing their sentiments in forcible language to the Arabs who are assisting to get forward their cargoes. And in the shady nooks that may be at hand, others are placidly looking on, and soothing their gentle spirits with their hookahs. As our first care was to secure a wheeled conveyance to take our party to JeruBalem, we hastened to the hotel-keeper, whose house is situated beyond the gates, to make tho neceßßary arrangements about it. We had to pass through long irregular and broken-like narrow streets, which presented the ÜBual features of bazaars and tall houses and filthy corners. Near the solitary gate of the town on the land side, there is a fountain, adorned profusely with Arabic # inscriptions and gorgeous carvings. Loitering about the gate there is commonly a mixed crowd of donkeys and camels, with their owners or drivers and multitudes more waiting apparently like Macawber for something to turn up. This hotel-keeper we found was a man of no mean importance and renown, being an agent of the famous Cook, the leader of many more excursions (although more peaceful in their character) than those which immortalised Alexander, Cce3ar, or Napoleon. Wo were glad to be assured by him that the existence of the wheeled conveyance was no romance, and that the road was suitable for making a journey with it to Jerusalem. It belonged to an enterprising German farmer, one of the colonists who flourish here, and turn to good account by their patient industry the natural fertility and splendid climate that of old gave the highest renown to the Plain of Sharon. He was accordingly seni for, that we might make arrangements with them. After reasoning the matter in all its bearings, we at length came to terms, and arranged to take our departure in the afternoon. Meantime we returned to the town, to view the objects in which we felt special interest, and having, with the hotelkeeper's assistance, obtained the services of a native to conduct us to the reputed house of Simon the Tanner, we patiently followed him through the labyrinth of lanes and stairs by which he led us till we reached the famous house. Unfortunately he could only speak Arabic, which I did not understand, and on the other hand, he could scarcely understand a word of English. He brought us, however, to the veritable houae — that is, to what is exhibited as such. Its situation accords with the description of it as well as any other, for it is "by the sea-side." It is possible, seeing the town has repeatedly been destroyed, that this house may be a more recent structure than that in which Peter lodged, but in all probability it stands on the same site. Traditions in the East have a degreo of porfcinacity which cannot be equalled in other lands, and through all the disturbances of wars and commotions exciting the whole world which raged around this ancient town, the remembrance of the vision which occurred at the house of Simon the Tanner, and of tho exact place whore tho house stood, may have been faithfully preserved, whilst things that appeared of immensely greater importance in the sight of the world at the time; have sunk into oblivion. The house, which has massive stone walls, is evidently of great age. The chief apartment, a place about

12 or 14 feet square, has been consecrated as a sort of mosque, and some tawdrylooking memorials are displayed in it to commemorate the event which has given fame to this place. Ascending a stair we reach a flat stone roof, well adapted to be the scene of that vision which the Apostle Peter saw of the great sheet let down from heaven, filled with animals of every kind, clean and unclean, which set forth symbolically the glorious truth which before this had remained hidden from the wisest, that all men alike are freely welcome to receive the salvation which is offered them through Christ. From this roof we can look down on the shipping almost at our feet, and see some vessels that may indicate by their size the kind of ship in which Jonah took his passage to Tarshish. We may also observe the entrance to the harbour through which we have just passed, and recal the scenes which must have transpired there when Hiram's servants arrived with their great rafts of timber from Lebanon, for the building of the Temple. As we look on the houses around us, our eye will doubtless see the spot where the humble dwelling of Dorcas stood, who was raised to life by Peter. Tradition has not preserved the spot where her house was built. Possibly she was too poor to have one of her own. But her memory is held in honour by the inhabitants, and every year, on the 25th May, a festival or holiday is observed, on which the young people go out pic-nicking among the orange-groves in the neighbourhood, and sing ballads and hymns in her praise, and throughout Chriotian lands the fame of her pood deeds ha 3 quickened the charitable zeal of many women, and led them to act as benefactors of their race. We were delighted to meet with one whose good deeds I have no doubt are producing very substantial and enduring benefits to the population of Jaffa. I refer to Miss Arnott, who, prompted by a desire to benefit those who were cut off from all education, began, at her own expense, thirteen years ago, a school for the daughters of the inhabitants. This work has prospered so greatly, that she has been led to erect a large permanent building, costing nearly £3000. She has incurred the risk of meeting this whole amount herself, but her appeals to Christian friends have already drawn forth donations towards the cost of the building, amounting to nearly the half. We were delighted to see the intelligence and apparent happiness of her pupils. They are taught all the usual branches of education—Arabic, the vernacular which prevails here, being the medium of communication. They are also regularly instructed in the truths of the Bible. We heard the children sing one or two hymns in Euglish. Some of them (thirteen) were boarders, and their support was furnished to the amount of £10 each by friends in Britain and America. There is also a public Christian service held in her school every Sabbath day, conducted by a Christian native of Lebanon, Maalim Marad el Hadad, who teaches a school for boys, which is supported by an American lady. Wo were surprised when told that these children had made an offering to the cause of Christian Missions, by contributing something towards the support of the mission vessel of the New Hebrides— the Dayspring. They were equally pleased as they were told that my fellow travellers—Mr and Mrs Clark, of Auckland, had been on board that vessel two months previously, in Sydney. (To be continued.)