The Humble Marrow

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXVI, Issue 23269, 11 February 1939, Page 7 (Supplement)

The Humble Marrow

Alluring Ways of Transforming Cinderella!

are many people who regard tho marrow as a tasteless, uninteresting, insipid addition to the dinner menu —a very Cinderella among vegetables! So it often is; but that is rather the fault of tho cooks than of tho marrow!

To begin with, tho majority ruin it, first by cooking it when it is much too large (and therefore tasteless and watery), and, second, by covering it with white-sauce. Melted butter is a much nicer accompaniment, and the marrow should be well peppered, as this enhances its flavour. It is also important to see that tho marrow is very well drained indeed before being served, as nothing is nastier than to see it swimming in watery stiuco or butter. Cook Them Young The vegetable marrow is at its very best when small, and the very tiny ones are delicious if steamed with the skin still on, or gently stewed in butter after they have been peeled. Small marrows, six or seven inches long, need

not be peeled, but if the pips are beginning to form theiy should be removed. and the marrow cut into two or four pieces. But sdways cook them whole if you can. If steamed, each marrow should be served on a strip of buttered toast. People who have once tried this way seldom revert to any other. Don't Boil Them Larger marrows, provided that they are young, and small enough to go into the steamer, should also be cooked whole, and with their skins intact. Anyone who still finds the vegetable insipid when cooked under these conditions should give it a dusting of pepper after it has been cut. It brings out the flavour of the marrow to a surprising extent.

If it is possible t'o a void it, a marrow should never be boiled. Steam, braise or bake it, but refrain from adding more water to its wateriness. Served With Cheese A marrow may also be steamed whole, then cut into conveniently sized .pieces, and allowed to drain thoroughly. The pieces are then arranged in a j buttered fireproof dish, covered with a .bechamel sauce, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and grated cheese, .dotted with butter, and browned in the oven or under the grill. : v. . . - Fried in Batter

In dishes where the marrow has to be'cut, and careful draining is necessary to make it fit for the table, it is best to do most of the draining before it is cooked, and not afterwards. To this end, supposing that your marrow has been cut in halves, sprinkle them with salt and let them stand to drain for an hour before they are used. Cut-up marrows can be fried for a change. Parboil and cut into half-inch pieces, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, dip in breadcrumb, then in beaten egg, then in more breadcrumbs and fry in deep fat, or dip the pieces in batter; or simply cut the marrow into slices, thick or thin, dredge them with flour after sprinkling with salt and pepper, and fry them slowly in butter until they are crisp and brown. Stuffed and Baked

Stuffed marrows aire delicious, filled with minced meat such as veal, ham, chicken, beef, etc., with some rice or breadcrumbs, a little stock and may be an egg-yolk to bind it, and baked in the oven until the top is browned. But parboil or steam your marrow first, or it will bake rather dry, and use small marrows if possible, so that one can be served to each diner. Mock Ginger

Mock ginger may also be made with Vegetable marrow. Hero is a recipe given bv Francatelli, who was at one time chief cook to Queen Victoria; he gives pumpkin as the ingredient, but vegetable marrow can be used instead. Peel the marrows a;nd cut into shapes in imitation of preserved green ginger. Simmer very gently for a few minutes only in a syrup prepared as follows:

To a pound of loaf sugar add a tablespoon of essence of ginger, the juice of a lemon, and half a pint of water; boil for throe minutes. The syrup should bo boiled up twice, a teaspoon of essence of ginger being added each time.

Marrow Puree Largo vegetable marrows make quite a good puree. Boil tho marrows until tender, and then pass them through a fine sieve. Melt an ounce of butter in a pan, and add the marrow puree, a tablespoon of cream and plenty of pepper. Stir gently for five minutes or so, dredging in a little flour if a thicker puree is needed.