CASUALTIES OF WAR

Evening Post, Volume CXXVIII, Issue 109, 4 November 1939, Page 19

CASUALTIES OF WAR

FAMOUS FASHION HOUSES

French fashion houses have been among the war's first casualties, states the "Christian Science Monitor." Only two of the great dressmakers who set modes for most of the world are open for business today—Lanvin and Creed. The others have closed, either because their directors were mobilised for military duty or because their clients fled to escape war.

Mainbocher, the only American among Paris couturiers, in on his way to the United States with the expressed intention of setting up shop in New York. Before leaving he told a friend he would reopen in Paris after the war and keep his New York establishment as a branch. His Paris employees have been paid off and his car given to Miss Anne Morgan for war work. The directors of Patou, Vionnet, Piquet, and Worth were called to the colours. The director of Lanvin's, M; Labusquiere, also has gone to war, but Mme. Lanvin is making an effort to carry on so her sewing girl's won't be turned out of jobs. The sudden exodus of clients caused the shut-down of other houses like Alix. Schiaparelli, Chane'l,\and Maggy HouiT. The house of Creed was able to carry on because it makes the kind of clothes women are looking for now—strictly i tailored suits and businesslike topcoats suitable for women volunteer workers. Lower prices also have helped business. ■ ; Many dressmakers —among them Molyneux, LeLong, Paquin, Heim, and Balenciaga—hope to. reopen with February collections, but now they ace marking time and waiting for adjustments they hope the Government will make. j The dressmakers want reductions in taxes, rents, and overhead expenditures to enable them to continue. Arid; to this end the Chambre Sydicale de la i Couture, of which Lucien LeLong is

president, is negotiating with the Government. Fashion, in Britain, is "carrying on." According to Norman Hartnell, Debenhams Freebody, and the others who dress stylish London, this is "definitely a stylish war." It's not all on the distaff side either. Men are sporting pigskin gas mask cases and Sir Nevile Henderson uses a black and white striped carie for blackout nights. Norman Hartnell, who dresses Queen Elizabeth among others, said that business was good arid that although styles showed a trend towards "soberer lines, and tailored models" things will probably brighten up when | "we get used to the situation." -,i A Hartnell spokesman asserted the house hadn't made any uniforms for Queen Elizabeth, but: added "of course, if she desires to have some, made, we will be only too glad to I oblige." ' ■ - ■■ | Black and navy blue are the most i popular colours and a black and white combination very smart, according to Hai-tnelFs. : WHITE STOCKINGS—NEVEE! Some of the shops^aro; closing for a while. Molyrieujt et Cie has .closed its gown department "until things quiet down a bit." Debenhams Freebody is enthusiastic about its new 1 "air raid suit," which is nothing more than our old; friend the overall come back in Angora and a dozen- different colours! Another department' displays an anti-mustard gas suit made of oiled silk.'' ■••■ ■"•; .' :. ■'■>*■ ■'■■■ ■■ ■\y ■■ Along; Bond .Street can be' seen Derby hats with white bands and white gloves. The black and white idea is for blackouts—to reduce blackout hangups, 'a V The shops are all for white and black but they are criticising the person who suggested all the, women wear white cotton stockings a ia Sudetenland.,, v .'. ■• ..' .-.. ' ■ ..■ ..'■.. ;. :'.. • j, ''Our-customers would- never .stand for such: things,", said a salesman in a French accessory shop. "Everything else we will do—handbags, white shoes, and the.rest, but white cotton stockings—never." ' . • .