PARIS IN THE MIRROR

Evening Post, Volume CVII, Issue 102, 4 May 1929, Page 19

PARIS IN THE MIRROR

(Written for "The Post" by '' Germainc.'') PARIS, Oth March. Woman may flirt with the idea of fashion in January or even during the latter days of February, but it is in the spring time that she gets, so to speak, down to, and deals with realities rather than with tho fantasies with which the dress designer's fancy is apt to play during the first part of the season. By March, fashions are | more or less erystalised, and even the

prudent find it safe to give their orders, happy in the assurance that they will not be left the sole votaries of "something that the true elcganto has rejected as being outre.

To licgiu with, tho all-important matter of line. Aro our waists long, or aro they to bo found in their normal position? Well, in tho vernacular, "some do and smno don't." Some that is to say. jf the new models, show normal waistlines, others aro long in effect, though not in reality, by means of drapery or even waistbelts. Others again, are really as long as ever, but do not look so, owing to varied arrangements of drapery.

Many frocks are draiu.nl to the front or the side, or there aro panels and uneven hemlines and godets and ripples, but the frock of the season, where evening gowns arc concerned, is that in mousseline-de-soie. There are frocks of tillcul, lemon, and Empire yellow mousse-line, and of pervenche, and turquoise and rose tones. They are lovely and enchanting things, especially for dancing in. One, in palest rose, is made of petals and petals, edged with white mousKcliue, and embroidered with white threads in sprays of delicate flowers. Oh, that French handwork! It is worn over a silver slip, that just sheens and shimmers through the layers of petals. It would turn the right girl into a perfect dream!

But darlings, remember, discretion is the belter part of chic. I can never drum lliis into you 100 much, and you must take your inousselines with a. great deal of discretion. Don't got muusscliuc it' you arc liony, or—well, not. slim—or it' your waist cuts you in two equal parts, or il' you have big feet or big hands or an athletic stride. In short, if you arc not .slim and round and feminine, shun mousselino as you would the most unattractive plague, and make yourself effectivo with summer velvet of flowered crepe do chine or satin. A LITTLE ADVIQE ON A SPRING WARDROBE. First of all, for a spring wardrobe a sports costume of soino light weight tweed or Scotch ilanncl is important. For colour choose either string-colour or navy, or a bright middle red, or have three in these three colours, and don't bo afraid of combining several colours in one costume. Tho skirt may be cut circular or may be plissee. The jumper should be longer and made of printed .jersey in an oblong block design, perhaps, of several colours, a zigzag run, with a gold thread, or a pattern of polka dots. Wear with this a short scarf, or a Dcuuville handkerchief, and carry with this an envelope bag, made of the material of your costume, if possible. As for your hat, choose a little straw, one in a matching colour, and have it with a small brim and a round crown. For afternoon wear, 1 should oiler a gown of one of the new printed silks, perhaps a taffetas, printed witli a small dot that looks as if the dye had run. Tliis frock might be made either draped with a lloating panel to one side, or cut with its fullness in the back of the skirl, which would be longer than tho front. A beige cloth | coat trimmed with fox fur to match, is exceedingly chic for spring wear, and you can wear with this a tiny felt skull cap, in the same colour. For evening, there are all sorts of lovely things to choose from. Kotliing thrills one quite so much, as to think of the new evening gowns! A pretty little lace frock in a parma violet colour, with its double skirt much longer in the back, is a. good idea. Or a frock of gold or silver tulle, the skirt immensely full, the bodice very slim, or a draped gown of stiff satin or flowered taffetas with either a bow on the left hip, or at the back towards the left side. As for evening coats, pale tinted velvets are pretty. You might have one in almond-green velvet with collar and cult's heavily embroidered in silver or gold or both, or you might trim it with fur dyed to match. SEARCHING' FOR NOVELTY. If you are searching for novelty you will bo letting your hair grow, and wearing the brims of your hats wider, even in the morning, and the heels of your shoes quite low, except for dancing, when you will have satin slippers matching the colour of your un-evenly lengthened gown. You "\vi!l carry an immense handkerchief ii mousseline do soie, untrimmed, but you can have .your monogram in the corner if you like. Your jewels should, be

pearls or opals, and you will wear strange flowers in strange colours, tucked into the waist or the hip-line of your frocks. Or you c;mi wear a little posy of flowers stuck through bracelets on one wrist. Then, if you are slender, you might even have your gowns made with the "natural" waistline, and your one-piece frocks with high collars, or with little frilled collars and cuffs of ecru muslin, very demure and Quaker-like. If you want to be ultra modern you may have a "Peacock" train to your gown, that drags a length of material <ra the floor. If you don't know how [ to manage a train—and how should one since trains have been "out" for goodness knows how many years—you will have to learn. Certainly, if these old-fashioned ideas come back once I more, we shall have to take lessons how I to move about, how. to sit down gracefully, and how to get up again! Ah, that's the point, it's much more difficult to get up with a train-gown than to sit down in itl At least, that's my idea. But perhaps I'm wrong. Anyway, there will have to be an improvement in what our ancestors called deportment.