FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

Evening Post, Volume CVI, Issue 112, 17 November 1928, Page 14

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

(Specially Written for "The "Post") 2Sth September. London at the moment scenis to be just ono dress parade after another, and in spite of almost superhuman efforts, it is difficult to squeeze them all in. I have just, returned, from a show given by one ■of the oldest aud most exclusive dressmakers, and feel quite at peace with tho world. This designer shows" only gowns, her clients cau wear, arid leaves the eccentricities of fashion for those who cater for the exotic minority. Such exquisite materials, with perfect lino and cut, so that although they had all tho up-to-the-minute ideas, one felt it was quite possible for ordinary mortals to look as charming in any of these gowns as tho exquisite mannequins. j The uew tweeds and woollens are a ! perfect joy, so soft aud supple, with not a hint of the bulky, clumsy lino we used to associate with winter clothing. There is a great feeling for tho long tweed coat with skirt to match and jumper of some soft, woven material that takes up the predominant colouring of tho tweed. This is a very practical idea,-for with a tweed suit so often the skirt gets shabby long before the coat has lost its first freshness, but with a long coat it can be worn again over a stockinet or any other suitable frock. Flat furs are very popular for trimmiug, and one coat of platinum grey velour had a collar and facing all down the front of baby lamb in the same shade, with deep fur cuffs to the elbow. They arc trying to popularise the muff, and the mannequins show them artfully pulled up over one sleeve, to impress upon clients how easy they are to carry about. One beautifully/cut coat of black voloiir cloth had a scarf collar and on tho left arm from wrist to elbow was

a black velvet muff with the gathered frills each end and a narrow fox skin iv a neutral tone, running, round tho centre., ...... One of the tweed coats had a beaver collar and a muff of beaver on one arm that had a practical purso bag let- into one side. We have to admit that muffs are cosy when the east wind blows, and this pulling up the arm is a good suggestion for the absent-minded woman who is always leaving her belongings about. ' . This greatest novelty of this collection were the caracul suits. They were no heavier than tho stamped velvet, thoy resemble, and cut and tailored like an ordinary material. . I especially liked a jaunty little suit that had a shaped flounce ou.the 3kirt cut deeper at one side and bound with wido military braid. The short straight coat was also bound with the same braid aud tho collar and rovers turned up round the face in a most becoming fashion. Tho jumper worn underneath was of-black chiffon, embroidered all over with heavy white silk flowers, and tho close-fitting felt beret with two bunches- of osprey resting on the cheek completed this desirable getup. It is hard to pick out frocks to describe—there were so many that were perfection, both' practically aud artistically. Ono lovely Jenny model in black crepe satin has already been ordered many times in many colours. The bodice was simple with long slim sleeves, the skirt a. medium length, with the fullness concentrated in the front in a fan of pleats. ' The hips and waist were swathqd tightly with satin that finished in a true lovers' knot in . the centre front. This note was repeated in the bodice when the narrow yoke of black lace was' continued down the back into a true lovers' knot across the shoulders. The transparency being further enhanced by a layer of pink chiffon underneath the lace bow. The lace was repeated at the edge of the skirt, quite narrow at the back and a littlo deeper in the front. This dress of crepe satin was made up on the matt or dull side of the material, which seems a popular notion at the moment. The frock I have sketched this week ■was another of these crepe satins, the bright side just being used for tiny roll hems on tho edge of.' the cape waist, and skirt. You will note the higher line of the waist, and this stunning frock was in royal purpie, absolutely unadorned except for a rope of pearls. Tho new bright blue was chosen for many frocks and wraps. A smart jumper frock bad the jumper of blue' tinsel velvet over a very originally pleated blue crepe skirt. Several of the eveuin" frocks in chiffon or laco w'ero of tho same brilliant colouring. One graceful gown of blue chiffon being embroidered round the waist and over the shoulders with diamante embroidery in the design of quill feathers. Bright blue is a fashion exclamation mark for I hear that every really smart woman in Paris will have at least one bright blue hat iv her collection this season. The little coateo habit is firmly established, for many frocks were supplied with airy . little . coats to match. One frock of black net had spots of coloured net in red and green outlined with gold woven oyer its surface. This was made with two full flounces and a bunchy sash, but even with the additional coatee could only Have weighed a few ounces. -. RUTH SIBLEY.