SACRED CITY OF THE LAMAS. SVEN HEDIN'S BOLD DASH.

Press, Volume LXI, Issue 11790, 13 January 1904, Page 3

SACRED CITY OF THE LAMAS. SVEN HEDIN'S BOLD DASH.

" IfELBOCRKE AROUB." To the devout Buddhists of Central Asia Lhassa, the mysterious abode of the Dalai Lama, is what Rome was to the Latin Chrirtians of the Middle Ages, what Mecca still is to the .followers of Mahommed —their chief place of pilgrimage, the holy city of their faith. All the approaches to it are vigilantly watched. No European has been allowed to set foot within its hallowed precincts sine© two French priests, the Abbe Hue and Pere Gabet, entered it 57 years ago. Every subsequent expedition which made the city its goal has been forced to return with its mission unaccomplished. Yet Lhassa exercises a wonderful fascination over travellers. Almost all who make their way into tlie. heart of Asia, are sooner or later seized by a consuming desire to visit the forbidden city—perhaps just because it is forbidden. Mature human nature, even in the person of a cool, level-headed servant of austere science, cannot completely outgrow tlie child-delight in stolen fruits, especially when personal danger adds zesrt to the gathering of them. THE SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE. The- latest traveller to be smitten with the "Lhassa-fever" was the famous Swedish explorer, Sven Hedin, who has given the world a detailed account of his most recent wanderings during the years 1899 to 1902 ("Central Asia and Tibet," London, Eu ret and Blackettj Melbourne, George Robertson and Co). His two large volumes ore full of instructive and interesting matter, but the most stirring and romantic episode he relates is the gallant attempt he made to reach Lhassa in 1901. Tlie bold Swede was in this instance led by the adventurous passion of the Viking, rather than by the steady beacon of science. "When I started on this crazy expedition," he tells us, "my Mussulmans evidently considered that I had somehow somewhere dropped a goodly portion of the common eens» with which Mother Nature had endowed mc, and truly it was a crazy project, I will admit, to. risk so much, my life included, merely for tlie pleasure of seeing Lhassa, a city which, thanks to the descriptions of Indian Pundits and Buriata (i.e., Russian subjects of Mongol birth and Buddhist creed), their maps and photographs, is far better known, both in respect cf its topography and its appearance, than most other towns in Central Asia. But after two years of quiet, peaceful rambling through the uninhabited parts of the continent, and after my long stretch of strenuous labour, I will honestly confess that I felt an irresistible longing for an adventure which should have a genuine spice of danger in it. . . . . I wanted to see the Tibetans —I wanted to talk to them—l wanted to get to the bottom of their rooted detestation of Europeans." THE START FOR TIBET. Sven Hedin intended his "dash" for Lhassa to be only an incident in a thorough exploration of the Tibetan highlands. He had resolved to cross the country, whether he entered the capital or not. His starting-point was a place called Charkhlik, in Turkestan, just to the north of the mountains that form the northern rampart of Tibet, and, as the crow flies, about 700 miles from Lhassa, which lies due south of it. Here, during April. 1901, he made lavish preparations'for a year's journey, collecting men and animals, food pvA provender, for his caravans. As he w*s* ed to get into Lhassa in the disgui.,v :** :v Mongol pilgrim, he had to send two of his? servants to fetch him a complete •outfit. The nearest place where this could be procured was a forijiight's journey from the camp at Charkhlik. The main caravan, consisting of 39 cnmels, many horses, and some 70 asses', was sent on ahead by the easiest road into Tibet, while Sven Hedin himself, with four attendants, a Mongolian Lima, whom he had persuaded to accompany him, a guide, and 12 horses, took a more difficult route. The two parties were to meet at a place agreed upon in Tibet. An untoward circumstance at the start was the arrival at. Charkhlik of a caravan •of Mongolian pilgrims, bound for Lhassa. Sven Hedin kept cut of their way; but they, of course, learnt about his expedition, and, as they would reach Lha*aa before he could, he knew that they would report what they knew to the authorities, and so make it harder than ever for him to slip into the city. Tlie first' stages of the toilsome ascent were duly surmounted. The two caravans met, and then pushed on together southwards, up steep passes and over wind-swept plateaus. What they had to endure may be understood from the following description of a storm they encountered:—"lt was brought by the north-west wind, and shook out tons upon tons of snow and hail over men, camels, horses, mountains—everything. The snow melted on our clothes, till we were wet through and stiff with cold . First one camel and then another stopped, exhausted, and refused to advance further. One after one we uncoupled them, and left them behind, each in charge of a man . . .

At noon it vr*s> twilight, and at twilight it was pitch dark. . ■ Slowly, like snails, like tortoises, we crawled up that wretched pass, the ascent gradually growing steeper as w-e advanced. . The sharp, keen snow crystals cat our faces. We shook and dithered vith cold, and gasped for breath. We were 17,625 feet above the level of the sea." LEAVING THE CARAVAN. For two'months tke wandereia met no human beings in these, inhospitable regions, but in the middle uf July they sighted a camp of Tibetan yak-huntere, who promptly fled before they could be spoken to. iiviin had already made up hit mind to

halt m soon as he came into contact with human beings, to leaTe the caravan in a suitable camp, and, with the La.in.-i and one of his Bariat Cossacks, make by a amerent road for Lhasa. A few days later abundant pasturage was discovered in a depression of the mountains, and there camp was pitched. Hedin and his comrades donned their pilgrims' robes! They selected five mules and four horses to take with them. All their baggage was squeezed into two Mongolian boxes. The only instruments they carried were three mariner's compasses, two watches, an aneroid barometer, two thermometers, tliree pairs of coloured wire spectacles, and a camera with eight dozen slides.* They also had a map, note-baoks, paper, i;:k, t-nd pens, measuring compasses, a razor and soap, scissors, a lantern, an axe, a dozen stearine cantEes, matches, medicines, and from £75 to £100 in silver. Their provisions consisted of flour, rice, talkan {roasted flour), and meat, and their weapons of a Russian repeating rifle, a Berdan rifle, and a Swedish army revolver, with fifty cartridges, for each. Ail the utensils, such as pots and pans, were of genuine Mongolian make, and each man was provided with two suits of Mongol cloths, and all tnose Utile things which Mongol pilgrims carry upon their persons, such as a rosary, an amulet, ivory chopsticks, and a skin tobacco-pouch, with pipe, tinder, and flint. Everything likely to excite suspicion was hidden away in one of the boxes underneath the provisions. To complete his disguise, Sven Hedin had to have his head shaved and his face smeared with a mixture of grease, soot, and brown colouring matter Tlie troubles of the three pilgrims began Boon after they had detached themselves from the main-caravan. A band of Tibetan robbers crept into their camp at night and stole their two best horses. This untoward experience revealed the risks they were running. . From that moment they resolved to live as if they were in an enemy s country, prepared at any hour of the day or nigut for an attack. Shagdur, the Buriat Cossack, nominally assumed charge, Hedin playing the part of a. humble servitor. Russian was strictly tabooed, and the only language tliey used was Mongolian. They . caught occasional glimpses of small bands of Tibetans, and knew that they were dogged by spies, who hung upon their front, flanks and reaa> As they journeyed on they met a few nomad shepherds and a few yak-caaavans carrying cube tea to southern Tibet. Sainpo Singhi, a nomad from whom they procured some native provisions, was "a man probably about forty years old; his face black rather than sunburnt, beardless and wrinkled; his dirty hair as black 33 a raven's wing, and the rain trickled off it down upon the ragged, sack-like cloak he wore; boots of coarse felt, which had originally been white; pipe and tobacco-pouch hung from his girdle; everything from top to toe unspeakably filthy. He %vas bare-headed and barelegged, txcept for his boots—in otner words, hv was minus inexpressibles." As the party continued its way to Lha&sa the number of Tibetan tents it passed began to increase, although the route chosen was for, obvious reasons not the main pilgrim Toad. IN THE TOILS. At last, on August sth, when Lhassa was only about 100 miles off, the toils closed in upon .the three adventurers. The Lama was severely cross-questioned by some Tibetans who were in charge of a small chief. ■ They told him that they had learnt that a "Shved Peling" (Swedish European) was on his way to Lhassa, and that a number of Europeans, strongly armed, and with a big caravan, were coming south over the mountains. 'lira Lama, in fear and trembling, told his examiners that the governor of Kara-shahr, his home in Turkestan, had ordered him to act as interpreter to the European caravan aa far* as Ladak, and that while the caravan rested in the mountains he and" his two companions had received permission to visit Lhassa. The Tibetan chief was not satisfied with tlie replies. He ordered tlie Lama and his companions to (stay where they were until he had made further inquiries. Next day there was ai .other examination. Sven Hedin was made to take off his spectacles to show the colour of his eyes. As they were black' the suspicions of the Tibetans were partially allayed, for. they believe-all Europeans have fair hair and blue eyes. A more important chief, a Lama with a red robe and yellow cap, came later to the camp and issued final orders that the "suspects" must wait the return of messengers who had been sent to Kamba Bombo, the chief of the province in which they then were. Bands of horsemen, armed to the teeth with" spear, lance, aword, and long black muskets, encamped near Hedin's tent, and, to inspire ths prisoners with a proper respect, went through several menacing manoeuvres. Streams of visitors poured into the tent, seeking information, and bringing victuals, for which they would take no payment. They reported that Kamba Borabo himself was coming to inspect the strangers. • A BUDDHIST PENANCE. "Our Lama," says tiven Hedin, "was gloomy and despondent. He had a 1 'saly recollection of Kamba Bombo, of Nakkenu, and of the thorough way in which he had searched the caravan of Mongol pilgrims with which our Lama formerly travelled to Lhatsa. If Kamba Bombo should happen to recognise him again his fate was sealed; and, even if he did not recognise him, our Lama's destiny was not a Uttle uncertain. He told mc about a Mongol Lama who, for some transgression or other, forfeited his right to visit the holy city, and who, by way of atonement for his offence, was ordered to travel from Irga all the way to Lhassa. in the attitude of prayer—that is, on his knees. Flinging himself prone, with his hands stretched out on the ground in front of him, he i drew his knees up towards his hands, and then, flinging himself forwards again with his hands stretched out in the same way, ; again drew his knees up to them, and in that way travelled the whole of the long, j wearisome distance, a task which took him six years to accomplish. And when he j arrived within his last day's march of the city gate the Dalai Lama refused to ailow I him to enter. A second time, and yet a third time, the man performed this painful penitential journey on his luiees, until they became as hard and horny as the callosities on the knees and breast of a camel. Still the Dalai Lama's heart did not soften. TURNED BACK. At the end of a few days the great Kamba Bombo himself arrived on the scene with a large retinue. His tents were pitched about a mile away on the Lhassa road. He invited the strangers to move their quarters into his camp, and to attend a banquet. Sven Hedin insisted on the governor's coming to him if he wanted to see him, and after s.ome negotiations Kamba Bombo gave way. Ho came to the tent escorted by seventy soldiers and officers. He dismounted and entered. He was arrayed in his robea of state. When his servants removed his outer garment, a red hooded cloak, he appeared in all the glory of a suit of yellow silk, with a blue skull cap on his head. His Mongolian boots were of green velvet. Having been provided with pen, paper, and ink, he began the investigation. He evidently penetrated Sven Hedin's disguise, and his summing up made it plain that there was no chance of getting on to Lhassa. "You will not go to Lhassa," he cried ; "you will not go another day, not another step, toward Lhassa. If you do you will lose your heads." The next day Sven Hedin returned Kamba Bombo's visit, but could not persuade him to alter his views, although he did obtain new horses in compensation for those stolen on the roadT There was nothing for it but to pack up and journey back to the main caravan. Kamba Bombo supplied an escort of three officers and a score of men, and wound up by presenting the Swede with six sheep, a stock of milk foods, and a number of bowls of fat. "Then," nays the explorer, "we said goodbye to this great chief, who had been at one and the same time so friendly and so inhospitable, and who hid &o inflexibly barred our way, and set off to return by the road we came. 'Yea, my good Shagdur,' I said—the fine fellow's courage and fidelity never wavered for a moment—'it is true we have not got into Lhassa; but he has- preserved our lives, for which w» have every reason to be thankful.'"-