FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume L, Issue 153, 28 June 1919, Page 20

FASHION NOTES.

• , By an Expert.) | | i PARIS, April 14. | Paris is once more Paris. Afternoon teas and dinners are again being given. ' Butter is to be had occasionally at exorbitant prices, and at the tea shops sandwiches and cakes may b» eaten at i will for the minimum price of 12 francs , the pound. ' The next silhouette that hugs the ' figure very closely has a definitely curved ' line in the back of the skirt, combined with a looser line in front; for all the 1 fullness of these skirts will be in front. 1 Quite the reverse line will mark the bodices, which will be loose in back and tight in front—an odd combination. For street wear many slightly longer skirts will bo introduced, for here in Parisskirts have been too short; and thci ' skirts of evening gowns will be decidedly longer; however, many smart women will continuo to wear short skirts for street and afternoon. Tailored ! suits will be loose as contrasted with the , shapelier dresses. j The Directoire period is being pushed strongly, and is sure to be the dominant note in the near future. The Louis XVI. • influence, hinted at more than once in the spring openings, seems inclined to t fulfill its promise, and is taking kindly I to the sphere of the tea gown and the , evening toilette, where the vogue of the i picturesque has always had scope. The . Sevres colourings and patterns of the i new glace silks and taffetas are ideally . suited to this mode, which is, however, i too Arcadian to adapt itself to the uses . of evcry-day life. The fads and fancies of fashions are . sponsors for the heinless skirt, which , appears in increasing numbers as the spring season advances. In the De-i . ginning of the season, the hemless skirt i was confined exclusively to separate . skirts made in bordered fabrics. But to-1 , day, taffetas, satins and foulards are , made with the edge of the fabrics, or the . selvege, bare and unadorned. This . typical skirt is shown most frequently . in spiral, draped or tiered form. Another new 191!) hem is scalloped. , At the moment this hem is used only on I crepe-de-chines, Georgette crepes, satins,l i and taffetas, and on organdi frocks. A J fascinating model in spinach green taf- , fctas has the scalloped hem finished with | ■ two rows of narrow pleating Carrying! out the quietness of scallop trimming. the elbow sleeves of the frock are also scalloped and trimmed with pleating. 1 More "frills" are applied to taffetas j frocks than any other of the spring . dresses. Two-inch wide aceordeon- • pleated ruffles are placed on a long, nar- > row taffetas skirt, all turning upwards ) in clusters of from three to six ruffles. • These upward pleated ruffles are used in every conceivable manner. The bottom ! of the skirt may be weighted with a halt • dozen ruflles, and Slurred side tunics are,' i finished with two upstanding ruffles. ' Three deep pleated flounces at both siaes I of the skirt are very generally seen. ' There is a very decided tendency towards the 1830 shoulder line, which in-

clines more end more to an exaggerate*: width and slope; an effect strongly re inforced by the tight-fitting sleeves which go with the style. A pretty in novation is the slit sleeve, an openinf from neck to shoulder, leaving the lattei exposed, giving a charming effect. Thi long basvfue is another manifestation— the long-waisted basque, which crushes ii at the waist-line, and is finished belov with a cording. An amazing number of pockets appea: |on all the Paris suit jackets. Cm i jacket, in finger-tipped length, eigh ! braid-bound pockets are used, four 01 ' each side, two above and two below thi \ narrow belt. Pockets are also used 01 1 the straight and slender box jacket, bu ' are not as aggressively placed, but rathe ' Are inconspicuously arranged in pairs J one above the other, on either jacke 1 front, at the corners. These pocket: have flaps. 'i OUR SKETCH. ,| The tailored suit illustrated lias a dis ; tinctly military air, and has been carriei i out in navy blue serge. There are man} and vast pocket 3, which would arousi '. covetous feelings in any beholder, anc j the skirt buttons down the front in i ■I

j very attractive manner. The revers and the shoulder all add to the masculine appearance, and there is a turned-down collar and black silk cravat, while a pair of white kid gauntlet gloves add a touch of immaculate whiteness to this fascinating get-up.