FASHION NOTES FROM PARIS.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIV, Issue 58, 8 March 1913, Page 18

FASHION NOTES FROM PARIS.

(By A PARISIAN EXPERT.)

PARIS, January 3.

The latest addition to the supply of new motoring headgear is the close-fit-ting cap or bonnet, fashioned of soft felt •in ivory white, powdered over with black spots about the size of a pen. These caps or bonnets are draped like cloth, and are supplemented with ivory ninon veils, which, after the almost invariable fashion of this year, are actually fastened to /the hats, so as to obviate a great deal of trouble with pins. These motor bonnets have usually no additional trimming, the manner in which this soft felt is folded and manoeuvred supplying all bhe decoration necessary, but in one or two cases a little cluster of velvet cherries is poised at each side, just over the ears, which are, however, hidden by the sides of the bonnet. Many of the latest hats are small: the greatest success has been scored by the "postilion," with a rolled over-brim and square crown, simply trinrmed with a "chapelier" bow, from which rises a plume or aigrette. Another very popular model is in black drawn velvet, trimmed in the same way as -the former, or sometimes— and this i 6 the very latest—with silk Macrami insertion, with a butterfly bow in front, made of the same lace. Feathers have dTooped for so long that nobody will have them any more. Everyone prefers the audacious aigrette. A few little hats of the "chapelier" shape, which is so much in vogue at present, are trimmed rather high round the crown, into a double wreath of roses, white roses, violets, or begonia. They are usually of .white felt: the brim rolled with black velvet. Large hats, put away for a time, are now making their reappearance. They are very flat, with low crowns and very simply trimmed — a bunch of aigrettes, an ostrich plume, a bow artistically arranged, not many flowers, except velvet roses, which in no way resemble real ones. OUR SKETCH. A simple little draped cashmere frock in periwinkle blue forms the subject of our sketch on this page. The fashion for collars opening in front is becoming more popular every day, and a pretty example will be seen illustrated. This turn-down collar in ecru lingerie is completed with a little inner vest, also in ecru lingerie—very effective; and the cuffs to the long, close-fitting sleeves are also of the same soft fabric. The cross-over bodice is adorned with buttons and simulated but-ton-holes, and finished at the waist with a smart shiny leather belt, the toute ensemble being very graceful and very smart, and the smart woman should, .above all. be graceful.

CONCERNING THE BACK VIEW OF THE DRESSES. So many women neglect the back of the dress, or at least they forget all about it. The matter is brought to their attention for the first time when the dress arrives home, and is being examined in the privacy of the boudoir, where mirrors and daylight disclose the fact that there is something decidedly unbecoming about the back view. Just what it is may remain for ever a mystery. The dress may be returned again and again to the dressmaker for "alterations," but •the "settled look" or "broad look" will not disappear, and the unfortunate weareT mnst wear a dress that is a dream of loveliness from the front, but a glance at her retreating figure, and the whole effect is marred. There are several reasons for a calajnity of this Gort I happening. The fault may lie in the up- ; per part of the dress. The skirt may sweep in graceful lines from waist to train, but if the corsage about the waist is dTawn tightly into the belt, or if it has been cut upon straight lines so that the seams will run parallel with each other, straight from top to bottom, then there will be no trouble. For evening dreESes, if the corsage is cut V, all seams should slope inwards from the shoulders towards the waistline, iwhere they should meet. There should besome ease, almost fulness, given to the materials used for afternoon dresses. If the material is dra-wn too tightly, it gives a rounded effect, and creates an impression of fleshiness between the shoulder blades. The skirt is of equal importance. Seams in tailored l dresses should be straight, from the top to the bottom of the skirt. They should never taper one way or the other. If they are farther apart at the top than at the bottom of the skirt, there is a tendency towards broadening at the hips and across the back. It may be an optical illusion, but invariably this has proved to be the case, and many women have changed' the style of their corsets, have undergone heroic treatment, in order to reduce what they imagined was the commencement of the dreaded "set- ■ tied look," and have found eventually I**** the remedy lay in altering the Lntnns of the dress.

LATEST FASHIONS FOR YOUNG GIRLS. At the present time, women dreas in so youthful a fashion that girls often look more like the sisters of their mothers than their daughters. But because mothers seek to look younger, there is no reason why girls should age, although there is a distinct tendency in this direction. Rich in their youthful beauty, they do not fear to appear older than their years warrant. This is a slight weakness which they wilksoon get rid of. The present-day style of dress gives a wonderfully young silhouette. Many of these costumes are made in one piece, particularly those for afternoon and country wear. They are mounted on "gros grain," and the waist is outlined, but never sharply defined. For young girls one prefers to keep to the high waist line, as it adds to the height. The top of the-bodice, somewhat like a blouse, if left open at the neck, and finished off with a large linen or lace collar, gives a freah and dainty appearance. A narrow patent leather belt with a gold buckle, or a sash of black satin knotted at the side and weighted with passementerie, completes the toilette. Taffetas is very often used for this sort of costume, and little old-fashioned frills or puffs border the bottom of bhe skirt. Fancy buttons, perfectly matching in colour the costumes, also make a pretty and practical trimming. A very characteristic "nouveante" to be mentioned is the tippet cap, so long forsaken, and which is now worn with the lightest afternoon dresses. There are some exceedingly pretty ones in white satin hemstitched and piped with bla-efc satin. These capes must always match the costume. Evening dresses, which are at the same time practical and elegant, are those made in linen. A transparent gu'rmpe at once turns them into afternoon costumes. Muslin, lirren and cambric are the ma-terials used, with insertions of costly lace, spun thread, and Madeira embroidery. They have Valenciennes flounces, and are finished off with ribbon belts of delicate shades. Cherry colour is very much in fashion this season in the trimming of simple toilets. For instance, used with black and white, the colour is both striking and young- looking.