THE VIVID EAST.

Auckland Star, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 172, 20 July 1907, Page 9

THE VIVID EAST.

THE VENICE OF THE SOUTHERN SEAS. •BY" THE REV. JOSEPH PARKER. (Sometime Congregational Minister, Auckland.) H. One of the dreams of my life has been to visit Venice; Venice, the city of the water highways, the gilded gondolas, and the splendour of the Doges. But lam now content, I have seen Manila. Manila is the Venice of the southern seas; and before any Australian or New Zealander travels over 12,000 miles and incurs great expense to visit Venice of European fame, let him see the Venice of the Philippines, which lies almost at his doors. Manila has its waterways, made possible by the serpentine course of the river Pasig, and Manila Bay, and these waterways are spanned by numerous bridges. Instead of gondolas, Manila has an unbroken succession of strange looking craft, built high in the stern, and covered with matting and fibre, as a protection for the numerous families which sometimes live aboard one of them. As many as twelve families have been found on one of these barges, I am assured, but. I had the evidence of mine own eyes for the existence of what appeared to be three families on many boats. The painting of the Doeges palaces are not to be found in Manila, but instead the most wondrously beautiful sunrises and sun-settings in the world are to be seen from the Luneta (a beautiful promenade where thousands of people listen to the strains of a band made famous by -winning the second prize at the St. Louis Exhibition).

In Australia we have nothing old save the hills and the gum trees; upon all our buildings and* institutions is the stamp of almost painful newness, but in Manila are to be found walls 30 feet thick crumbling to decay through length of service. In an unbroken succession of nearly 400 years the Spanish flag waved over the Philippines. When blackfellows, wallabies, and snakes roamed and crawled over the sites of Melbourne, Sydney, and Brisbane, and the Maori reigned supreme in Now Zealand, Spanish Dons lorded it over the Filippinos, and impressed upon them from love of the beautiful, along with their courtly manners. "Within the walled city of Manila, on every hand, one sees evidences of great wealth, of skilful artisanship, and rich design. There are miles of houses built in solid rows of massive masonry, embellished with carvings and cornices utterly regardless gf

time and human labour. Every littla while one is confronted with enormous doors, and off these again are to be seen elaborate provision for the care of carriages and horses. In those days life could not have been very safe, nor property secure, for every window has its iron bars and enormous shutters. There could have been no labour troubles nor union rates when the Spaniards ruled Manila, for Santiago (now the residence of the Governor), and the very streets, pavements, walls, all show that labour was expended with wondrous prodigality. The old churches have the same story to tell. The Cathedral of Manila must cover nearly three acres of land, and is a splendid relic of the old days when religion wrought itself into architecture. From the beginning of the entrance to the completion of the arch over the. front doors I measured 25 feet of solid masonry; the larger cornices and mouldings are still in rich evidence, but many of the smaller ones are yielding to age and exposure to all weathers. The interior of the Cathedral is paved throughout its great length with polished marble sltibs; six chapels adorn the wings, the organ and choir are placed in the centre; while the high altar and Archbishop's throne are so adorned and arranged as to make the whole scene impressive and interesting.

The Filippinos in Manila are destinetly of two classes; the thousands of people who live on the boats which adorn the waterways do not impress one by

their cleanliness or beauty. It isj said that they will work only when they are in need of a few dollars. With dollars in pocket they sit in the sterns of their barges and smoke, and talk, and chew tobacco, as many a ship eager to be unloaded has proved to its cost. But the Filippinos engaged in the offices and shops of the city are apparently cleanly in their persons, charming in their manners, and I think handsome in their persons. Of three native races, Samoans, Maoris, Filippinos, I would place Filippinos first for attractive appearance, while it is a real pleasure to listen to the sweet silvery tones of their speech. Spanish is the language most commonly spoken by them, and they have not forgotten the courtly manners, of their former masters. "Senor, I do but speak little English, but I trust you will find your way, enjoy yourself, and may we meet again," was the reply one of them made to a friend of mine when asked for a direction in the street. It may seem a little fulsome to some, but it certainly is an improvement upon the grunting expectorating ejaculations with which one is often greeted when seeking for direction from a stranger in the streets of some cities.

A funeral in Manila is a matter which is bound to attract the attention of the Australian, owing to the fact that it is so different to the practice prevailing amongst us. Instead of black the hearse is a rich cream or white, the plumes are white also, the horses are white, the driver is dressed in white; beside each horse—and there are generally four and often six—walks an attendant dressed in white; there is no other part in the procession; there .is no sign of the mourners, there is no officiating priest or clergyman. These meet the hearse with the coffin and pall hearers at the graveside. When the simple but expressive service is almost concluded, at the words, "dust to dust and ashes to ashes," the widow or husband as the case may be, -breaks a bottle of musk over the coffin. There are advantages in such a custom. Along with the old there is a large amount of the new in Manila. Cousin Jonathan is making things "hum" in Kis new territory; the breakwater which protects the shipping from the waters -of Manila Bay is both valuable and artistic; the wharves which are being constructed, when complete will make Manila one of the most desirable ports in the East to call at; the protecting banks to the river and the paved canals are as interesting as they are valuable. I

There are 25.000 American soldiers maintained in Manila, which means more than can be stated in a sentence. It means a big bill for food supply on the part of Cousin Jonathan, and it is most interesting to know that a lot of the money so expended is coming to Australia. ' Wherever one goes in Manila for food, be it home, hotel, or cafe, he can be almost certain that he is eating Australian beef, mutton, pork, or butter. Through the courtesy of the manager of the cold storage works I was shown all over the company's extensive and up-to-date plant. It is on a scale about equal to the Q.M.E. works at Pinkenba, Brisbane, and most beautifully situated, facing as it does an open park, with walks, drives, and flower-beds. .The output of ice from these works is simply enormous: 10,000 gallons of -water, first boiled, and then frozen every- 24 hours-; but even 100,000 lbs. of ice per diem are not sufficient for the demand of .this Philippino Venice, and the ice carts have sometimes to go away unsatisfied. But it was with an unmistakeable glow of pride that I looked into the enormous ice galleries and there saw the miles of frozen beef, mutton, and pork from Australia. What a splendid opportunity is

this for our pastoralists. Given fair seasons, and in her stock "alone, Australia should find her richest gold mine. Manila has a population of over 300,000, but that is only a part of the hungry multitude that has need of our food, stuffs.

Judging frofn the conversation of men in the streets and on the boats, the United States has no easy task in bringing the Philippine group under pacific rule', and conducting its national and civic life along the lines of modern progress. The recent Philippino chief, Agquinaldo, has received a sop in the way of a high position in the Army service; he is credited with possessing one of the finest properties in the Philippines, and many of his followers have received, and are receiving, a considerable amount of spoon feeding. But the general opinion is that it is mistaken kindness, and a policy that will ultimately have to be forsaken. The Philippinos understood the policy of the Sjjaniard, but they regard the American policy as one of weakness.

Possibly some of the most interesting ear rides in the world are to be had in the suburbs of Manila. " While many of the native houses are mere shackles many others are most artistically built, and present a most pleasing with their high verandas and many coloured mat walls and lattices. In some of these areas during the rainy season the whole place is turned into an enormous lagoon, and parents and children may be seen leaving their homes and walking knee or waist deep in water to the places they wish to go. Before American occupancy Manila was described as a city of saloons and bars; with indescribably dirty streets. Many changes have come, but the bars remain, and in one night one of my fellow-passengers in company with a policeman and a guide, counted 700 women of high-class life in houses of ill-fame. So Uncle Sam, has a lot of cleaning work to b* tianejiii _i 3 newlyac_o.ired. Vjatfce. ■*•*•