Observer, Volume XXXVI, Issue 7, 23 October 1915, Page 21
AS an appropriate dressmaking subject for the time of year, the little coatee depicted on this page has few rivals. It is a delightfully becoming wrap for summer wear and is specially practical for remnants. There are lengths of linen and taffetas, pique, and other fabrics that would just cut the little garment, and the same remark applies to the blouse that accompanies it, and forms a charming part of the pattern. Individual requirements will dictate the exact material and colour to choose.
One-piece linen frocks will be very popular for seaside wear; in linen, tussore, shantung, fine serge, and such materials. On slender girls and women these dresses are charming in their trim simplicity—for example, in crushed strawberry or butcher-blue linen, with a waist-belt of white kid and a large hem border, for the wearer who does not want a very juvenile-looking garment; but is slender and elegant enough to warrant a choice of the coatee, especially when, made of dark blue taffetas, or the newlyliked rich and deep claret shade which looks well with white.
For the "between season," when summer is loth to go, and autumn is not strong enough to decide the matter for her, but throws in a chilly day here and there as a hint that she will be with us anon, the Pardsienne, with her usual resource, has evolved the "coat-frock."
It fills l a much-required need, for such is the design of these frocks that at first sight one is not quite sure whether they are frocks or costumes, and thus they are not too warm for indoor wear, and look perfectly correct for a stroll in the Bois. Usually cut with a belt of their own material, they have a kind of tunic which simulates a long walking-coat.
New collars are interesting in their,variety. One style rolls at the back, and has flaring points each side of the front. _ Another design is of lace, edged with plaited net, high at the back and sidles, and open in front. A smart style ha® a sidle fastening and a wired tab at the
back, which is very becoming. A black ribbon stock collar with wired lace tabs at the back and sides is most effective.
Crepe de chine sports coats finished with belts or sashes are seen in many colours. » .* *
The vogue of the cotton gown increases every day. It is difficult to distinguish whether the mercerised materials now worn are silk or cotton. The cotton voiles, too, are wonderfully pretty and 1 good-looking ; quite nice enough for one's best frock, indeed. . You could hardly imagine anything more economical or more becoming than a best frock of dark blue cotton voile, for instance, made with a deep, full tunic.
If the tunic is not cared! for, the plain, full skirt can be chosen, set m narrow pleats at tftie waist, and trimmedi with three wide tucks at the hem. A very satisfactory and nice fashion is that of trimming the bottom of the skirt with a deep false hem, from eight to twelve inches wide, of voile or silk, of different shade from the dress. Deep heliotrope, for instance, looks beautiful with trimming of dark pansy shade.
I hear that an old-fashion revived is to be a return of the gown which has what used! to be termed the "waterfall" back. Some smart models have already been made, and one of these is in navy charmeuse, with a very full skirt, and a long "tail" in blue serge hanging loose from the shoulder, and weighted' at the hem.
The bodice is in charmeuse, and the sleeve is finished with one of the new long glove cuffs, which comes above tbe elbow, and finishes there with an upstanding frill. The whole effect is quite different from anything we have seen recently, and is vary refreshing as a change.
Once more a background 1 of colour is permdtetd for the blouse, such as pale blue or a delicate mauve, rose, or sea-green, and in consequence the daintiest little Milanese _ and silk slips are seen, with lace insertions. This brings one to the realms of lingerie, a far cry from headgear, perhaps, yet linked to it by the boudoir-cap, the latest specimen of which is provided with a ribbon chinstrap, which is most becoming.
Simplicity is the key _ which unlocks Fashion's door this 1 summer, and we shall probably see nothing elaborate walk out the whole season, even in the more expensive materials. Considerable variety is shown in robe styles, the full gathered skirt with normal waist-line being the most popular. Without exception skirts are short and! wide, and very often they are also flared.
The taste for combination of materials is fully established, and we see now the sleeves, vest, and skirt of one materia], and the coat of another, the deep border at the foot of the skirt corresponding with the coat. Crepe de chine and taffeta are an example of materials combined! in this way.
Blouses are once more much in evidence, and are seen in many styles. Some with the rather wide armhole and let-in sleeve, and others in the Raglan style, while the magyar sleeve is as popular as ever, especially with such materials as ninon,. A smart style has a high collar, buttoned up to the chin, finished with a narrow, outstanding frill. The popular open-throat blouse shows no diminution. Whatever its style, the favoured blouse is simple, and invariably has a high roll collar, cuffs, and front of dainty organdy. Tiny buttons are greatly used to ornament the season's blouse; they are placed l down the front, andl sometimes round the collars and cuffs.
Sleeves are long, some flare at the wrists, others nave frills falling over the hand.
Lace motifs of varied designs compose some of the new collar®, having a sailor-shaped back and pointed front. * * * The wide skirts have brought into use again the under-skirt, which is frequently made now of taffeta, with niching or scalloped edges. * * * Insertion striped voile malces up well with a cape coatee effect on the back and belt, and collar and cuffs of floral voile. * * • Australian-made flowers for millinery and; decorative purposes include roses in all sizes, poppies, ranunculus, marguerites, etc.; a bandeau of the latter is formed by stringing the large white flowers on a black velvet ribbon band. * * * Some of the new net and lace gowns have full skirts gathered in at the waist-band, and finished with pipings at the hips or frills at the foot. * * * Robes of black crepe de chine with full pleated or gathered skirts and sleeveless guimpes look smart when finished with a black velvet collar andl vest. * * * A striped voile robe with sleeveless guimpe and coatee effects over a white blouse is very attractive. * * # Silk poplin is a favourite this summer for smart robes and costumes, especially in black. * * * Assam silk is a favourite this season for coats and costumes. One smart coat example shows a full pleated skirt section, and collar and cuffs faced with black silk. A threequarter length dust-coat has a long waist effect with an umbrella flare. The coat fastens close up to the throat, the military collar being held in place by straps. * * * A smart costume in Assam silk has :a sac coat cut away slightly in front, with pleated sides under the rounded l panels, while the flare skirt has a deep square fold in front; the military collar and sash end® are most effective.
Pepoil-striped cream serge makes a dainty costume with a coloured linen collar.